I Surveyed this lovely old Twilight Class Broads Yacht today down at Southgates in Horning. Built by Herbert Woods in the 1940,s.
Southgates new owners have turned the old shed into a service station, bought in a new hydraulic hoist (big foot) and have lots of room for winter storage. They provide the hire fleet with pump outs, fuel and water....
Surveyors comments:
Opening Up
Concealed areas within a hull are always a problem but, most wood vessels are constructed in such a way that enough access is available to make a fair assessment. It is usually possible to pull up floors (such as screwed in place plywood panels and the like) and remove enough paneling that one can get a fairly good glimpse of the bottom and lower sides. Carrying an electric screw gun is a must in order to do this quickly and effectively.
Planks & Frames Three important tools are a slim but heavy gauge pry bar - of the sort used for pulling nails - a heavy hammer and a large standard blade screwdriver. Check the joints between planks and frames visually, looking for gaps or any sign that the plank is not tight against the frame. Then use the screw driver to test the wood for softness on both plank and frame near the mating surface. Soft wood and cracked frames are dangerous conditions that mandate repair.
Try to slip the pry bar under the frame and pry gently. Does the frame move or rock slightly? If so, there is a fastener problem. This should be done at every opportunity along the keel or garboard area. If the frame ends are split or soft, repairs are necessary. If dealing with tall, sawn frames, one can hit the frame with the hammer to see if it is loose.
Certainly its not feasible to go through the entire hull testing all frames and planks in this manner, and fortunately it is not necessary except for the keel area where this needs to be done wherever possible. Further up from the keel, we can limit our physical testing by looking for signs of weepage. Anytime there is evidence of water migrating through seams, corrosion of fasteners has to be suspected. Weepage shows up in various ways, often depending on whether the wood is painted or bare, its age and so on.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
Southgates new owners have turned the old shed into a service station, bought in a new hydraulic hoist (big foot) and have lots of room for winter storage. They provide the hire fleet with pump outs, fuel and water....
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| Ideal work place for wooden boats at Southgates in Horning |
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| Slipping her back into the water |
Surveyors comments:
Opening Up
Concealed areas within a hull are always a problem but, most wood vessels are constructed in such a way that enough access is available to make a fair assessment. It is usually possible to pull up floors (such as screwed in place plywood panels and the like) and remove enough paneling that one can get a fairly good glimpse of the bottom and lower sides. Carrying an electric screw gun is a must in order to do this quickly and effectively.
Planks & Frames Three important tools are a slim but heavy gauge pry bar - of the sort used for pulling nails - a heavy hammer and a large standard blade screwdriver. Check the joints between planks and frames visually, looking for gaps or any sign that the plank is not tight against the frame. Then use the screw driver to test the wood for softness on both plank and frame near the mating surface. Soft wood and cracked frames are dangerous conditions that mandate repair.
Try to slip the pry bar under the frame and pry gently. Does the frame move or rock slightly? If so, there is a fastener problem. This should be done at every opportunity along the keel or garboard area. If the frame ends are split or soft, repairs are necessary. If dealing with tall, sawn frames, one can hit the frame with the hammer to see if it is loose.
Certainly its not feasible to go through the entire hull testing all frames and planks in this manner, and fortunately it is not necessary except for the keel area where this needs to be done wherever possible. Further up from the keel, we can limit our physical testing by looking for signs of weepage. Anytime there is evidence of water migrating through seams, corrosion of fasteners has to be suspected. Weepage shows up in various ways, often depending on whether the wood is painted or bare, its age and so on.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
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