Wishing everyone a happy, healthy and prosperous 2013.... and enjoy every experience...
Monday 31 December 2012
Thursday 27 December 2012
Buying a boat in 2013
Buying a boat 2013?
Whatever the type of boat you are buying, be it a dinghy or a super yacht, the same general rules apply. Follow these principles and you can buy your boat with confidence.
New or used?After you've decided what type of boat to buy, the next step is to decide whether you want to buy a new or used boat. Buying a new boat from a dealer will avoid many of the difficulties that are associated with buying a used boat. For example, new boats will come with a warranty and you'll have more confidence that the boat you are buying has not previously been stolen. The down-sides to buying a new boat, however are that the initial cost is much higher, the value will depreciate rapidly and new boats are generally less well equipped than used boats. Take a look at Haines Marine …one of the local boat builders to the Norfolk Broads, and see their latest models:
http://www.nya.co.uk/14_new-haines-range.html
Buying a used boat
If you'd prefer to save some money and buy a boat whose value will not drop so sharply, then buying a used boat is the sensible choice to make. The rest of this article is devoted to tips on buying used boats.
Specialists in used boats from Haines
Haines on the Broads have a unique depth of knowledge about the current range and earlier models. They have known many of their boats since before they were launched.
The quality of build ensures that Haines cruisers give many years of enjoyment. A used model is an excellent introduction to the brand and makes a good first boat for customers wanting to get into cruising. Not many people want to part with a Haines so used models can be difficult to find. However we know where they are and are best placed to find the boat that you want. The popularity of Haines means that we are always in the market for used models.
If you are buying a used boat from a private seller, it will generally come with no warranty, so you need to check it out carefully to avoid making an expensive mistake. Many brokers and dealers sell used boats as well as new, and may offer a limited warranty. Whilst this may provide some peace of mind, the broker/dealer needs to make a commission on the sale and this will be reflected in a higher price than if the boat was being sold privately.
Stock BoatsThese are becoming increasingly popular and are well worth thinking about. Check out Norfolk Yacht Agency on the Norfolk Broads they have a large selection of stock boats for the 2013 season.
http://www.nya.co.uk/76_Stock%20boat%20warranty.html
These boats have been pre- inspected and tested by qualified Marine Engineers who work for the company. All items of equipment will work at time of handover (unless marked otherwise and excluded from the boat’s specification). In most cases our preparation will include a polish, antifoul and engine service where necessary. You will be invited for a comprehensive handover to demonstrate and explain the boat’s equipment. After handover, the engines and gearboxes are warranted against major faults for the next 3 months.
Why is the boat being sold?Before you even inspect the boat there are a few checks that you can make to ensure you don't waste your valuable time and effort: Check out the builder of your chosen boat. Is it a highly regarded brand? Are they still trading? If not, it may prove difficult to obtain replacement parts when needed. This question can give you some clues as to how well the boat has been looked after before you even see it. If the boat is a repossession, it may indicate that the boat has not been looked after; if the owner didn't keep up payments to the financer, then he may have shown the same lack of care for the maintenance of the boat (of course this is a generalisation). If the boat is being sold because the owner is moving up to a larger boat, then this might indicate that the owner is a real boating enthusiast, and thus may have taken greater care in the upkeep of the boat. If the reason for selling is that there's a problem with the boat, then be aware that if you buy that boat, you will be the new owner of that problem!
Find out if the boat has a full maintenance logThis should list all services, repair, and oil changes. If it's missing, it can be hard to tell how well the boat has been looked after.
Does it have all the equipment you need?For example, navigation, lights, winches etc. If not present, you will have to buy that equipment separately, so build that into your budget.
What was the main use of the boat?The purpose that the boat has been used for may have an effect on its condition. For example, boats that are used mainly for fishing tend to run up a large number of engine hours.
Inspecting the BoatThe next step is to arrange a viewing. This is a vital part of the buying process; it enables you to see what you are getting before you part with any money. Choose a recognised Yacht Broker, a company with knowledgeable sales staff, who will listen to your needs, suggest the right boat and help you choose.
It is recommended that you use a surveyor (someone like myself!) to carry out a detailed inspection of the boat. I like you to be present at the survey so that you can ask questions.
At the moment, anyone can call themselves a marine surveyor, so it is important to make sure that yours is accredited by the relevant authority. Using a surveyor will give you peace of mind, and your finance company and insurance company may insist upon it. You should never rely on an old survey - new problems may have occurred since it was carried out. If you are experienced and confident enough, you may be able to perform an inspection yourself. Here are some things to look out for:
Has the boat been looked after well? Start by looking at obvious features such as the gel coat, woodwork and upholstery. If these haven't been maintained then there's a good chance the rest of the boat has not had much care either.
Check all wooden decking and interior woodwork for any soft spots.
Are any parts of the exterior paintwork poorly matching? This may indicate a previous accident which, in itself, may not be enough to dismiss the boat, but if the owner has not already mentioned it to you, then what else have they not told you?
Check that all the control cables (for steering, throttle etc.) are in good working order. The steering and transmission should move freely.
Look for water lines inside the boat or on the engine. These would indicate that the boat has flooded in the past.
Open and close all the hatches and sea cocks to ensure they're in good working order. If there are any water marks inside the hatches, it would indicate that they are no longer water-tight.
You should test out all the systems such as, bilge pump, winches, freshwater system, lights, fridges, heater and air conditioning, generator, stove etc.
Check that all hardware is attached firmly, and that electrical items and connections are free from rust.
Examine the hull all over, taking note of its general condition and looking for any dents, cracks or chips in the gel coat if applicable. Tapping a fibreglass hull lightly with a rubber hammer, listening for voids, can help reveal any blistering or delamination. Any fittings that go through the hull should be checked to make sure they are tight and won't leak.
Find the hull registration number, and make sure it is present, doesn't look like it has been tampered with, and matches the number on the boat's registration and title documents. Missing or altered hull registration numbers indicate that the boat may be stolen. It is crucial that you ensure that you are not buying a stolen boat; if you do, you risk losing the boat and your money
It may not be practical to view the boat out of the water, but if possible, it'll allow you to continue your hull checks below the waterline. You can also check that the keel runs in a straight line from fore to aft, and that the propeller, shaft and rudder are straight; do they show any signs of a collision accident? Look for signs of cavitation, this manifests itself as an erosion of the surface of the propeller blades - an indication of poor performance. Make sure that the propeller and shaft do not wobble.
On a sailing boat, check that all the sails and rigging are in good order.
If possible, it may also be worth contacting the boat's previous owner, to get any further information; as they no longer have any interest in whether the boat is sold or not, they may be more likely to give you an impartial viewpoint than the current seller.
Engine checksIf you don't know a lot about engines it would be best to get a mechanic to look over the engine for you. I will check the following points during my Survey and probably take the boat for a quick run if this is practicable on the day.
Ill check for the presence of oil in the bilges - a sign of an oil leak.
Check for any oil leaks around gaskets and hoses.
Inspect the level and condition of the oil. A milky appearance to the oil is a sign that water may be leaking into the engine. A burned smell or any grit in the oil, are additional indications of mechanical problems, whilst a chalky residue on the engine or drive would signal that the engine has been running hot.
Examine all the hoses and belts. Are they cracked or degraded? Smell for fuel leaks from hoses, and check that the fuel tanks are sound.
Are the engine mounts sturdy?
Do the sacrificial anodes (if applicable) need replacing?
The crankcase and gear oils will be checked if clean and at the correct levels. The water cooling cap will be lifted to see if there are any signs of oil emulsification inside.(could indicate a head gasket problem).
Engine throttle and gear controls will be checked for security and smooth operational.
A simple audio test will be carried out, checking for undue knocks in the bearings or running gear, making sure I cant hear any undue noise, piton slap, or bearing failure indicating that the machinery is functioning correctly.
Its important to remember, diesel engines can deliver years of trouble-free service- given proper preventative maintenance procedures. Some general information is listed on my website with some troubleshooting tips and advice.
http://www.insightmarinesurveyors.co.uk/diesel-engines
Sea trial
If everything is up to standards, it's time to take the boat for a test drive. This can be done quite easily at most boat yards with a crane. Before you start the engine, you should check to make sure if the engine is already warm; if the engine has trouble starting or smokes a lot when cold, the seller may have warmed-up the engine prior to your arrival to disguise such problems.
You should check the bilges, both at the start and end of the trial; you're looking for any evidence of an oil leak. See how the boat performs when moving around. Is the steering responsive? Experiment with hitting waves from different angles, looking for excessive pitch or roll. Try out these factors whilst above and below deck. Test that all the instruments are working correctly, and run the engine for long enough to see if it'll overheat.
If you're trialling a sailing boat, put the sails up, and see how she manoeuvres under wind power alone. If she’s on the Norfolk Broads where I live, will she go under the bridges? She will need to have a quality purpose built ‘A’ frame to achieve this. Try out different points of sail. Examine the mast and rigging under load. If the boat does not pass on any of your tests, you do not necessarily need to rule it out, as long as you are willing to put some time (and money) into putting things right. Any imperfections I find can be used as bargaining tools to try to negotiate a lower price!
Get it in writingIf you decide to purchase the boat, it is best to get everything put down in writing in a Sales Agreement. This should state the terms and amount of payment, and detail any pre-sale repairs that have been agreed on - making clear who is responsible for carrying them out and paying for them. It should also list which accessories are included and the delivery and payment dates.
A good Yacht Broker should make a meticulous check of all aspects of the paperwork that comes with the boat; looking at title, history, finance and registration to make sure that no problems will arise in the future. Take a look at Norfolk Yacht Agency its the region’s largest dedicated new and used boat sales centre.
http://www.nya.co.uk/73_quality-used-boats-from-nya
Beware of fraud There are a few things to watch out for to make sure you are not the victim of fraud when you buy a boat:
Does the price seem too good to be true? If so, it probably is. The boat may either be stolen or the seller may take your deposit and never be contactable again.
Make sure that you get the real address of the seller; you should be suspicious of anyone who only uses a PO Box.
Verify all the contact details of the seller. If there is an email address, make sure you can get a reply from them. Get a telephone number for them and make sure it works.
If the boat is in a different country to the seller, be extra cautious, and take even more care if either are outside of your own country.
If anything just doesn't seem right, don't dismiss those feelings until you've checked them out. Often your instincts are correct.
Some accreditation authorities for marine surveyorsRemember, if you are enlisting the services of a surveyor like myself, make sure that they are accredited by a well known authority. Some examples are listed below:
The Yacht Designers and Surveyors Association
The International Institute of Marine Surveying
The Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors (SAMS)
The National Association of Marine Surveyors (NAMS)
Whatever the type of boat you are buying, be it a dinghy or a super yacht, the same general rules apply. Follow these principles and you can buy your boat with confidence.
 |
| Dont forget this years show... the perfect start place if your thinking of buying this year |
http://www.nya.co.uk/14_new-haines-range.html
Buying a used boat
If you'd prefer to save some money and buy a boat whose value will not drop so sharply, then buying a used boat is the sensible choice to make. The rest of this article is devoted to tips on buying used boats.
Specialists in used boats from Haines
Haines on the Broads have a unique depth of knowledge about the current range and earlier models. They have known many of their boats since before they were launched.
The quality of build ensures that Haines cruisers give many years of enjoyment. A used model is an excellent introduction to the brand and makes a good first boat for customers wanting to get into cruising. Not many people want to part with a Haines so used models can be difficult to find. However we know where they are and are best placed to find the boat that you want. The popularity of Haines means that we are always in the market for used models.
If you are buying a used boat from a private seller, it will generally come with no warranty, so you need to check it out carefully to avoid making an expensive mistake. Many brokers and dealers sell used boats as well as new, and may offer a limited warranty. Whilst this may provide some peace of mind, the broker/dealer needs to make a commission on the sale and this will be reflected in a higher price than if the boat was being sold privately.
Stock BoatsThese are becoming increasingly popular and are well worth thinking about. Check out Norfolk Yacht Agency on the Norfolk Broads they have a large selection of stock boats for the 2013 season.
http://www.nya.co.uk/76_Stock%20boat%20warranty.html
These boats have been pre- inspected and tested by qualified Marine Engineers who work for the company. All items of equipment will work at time of handover (unless marked otherwise and excluded from the boat’s specification). In most cases our preparation will include a polish, antifoul and engine service where necessary. You will be invited for a comprehensive handover to demonstrate and explain the boat’s equipment. After handover, the engines and gearboxes are warranted against major faults for the next 3 months.
Why is the boat being sold?Before you even inspect the boat there are a few checks that you can make to ensure you don't waste your valuable time and effort: Check out the builder of your chosen boat. Is it a highly regarded brand? Are they still trading? If not, it may prove difficult to obtain replacement parts when needed. This question can give you some clues as to how well the boat has been looked after before you even see it. If the boat is a repossession, it may indicate that the boat has not been looked after; if the owner didn't keep up payments to the financer, then he may have shown the same lack of care for the maintenance of the boat (of course this is a generalisation). If the boat is being sold because the owner is moving up to a larger boat, then this might indicate that the owner is a real boating enthusiast, and thus may have taken greater care in the upkeep of the boat. If the reason for selling is that there's a problem with the boat, then be aware that if you buy that boat, you will be the new owner of that problem!
Find out if the boat has a full maintenance logThis should list all services, repair, and oil changes. If it's missing, it can be hard to tell how well the boat has been looked after.
Does it have all the equipment you need?For example, navigation, lights, winches etc. If not present, you will have to buy that equipment separately, so build that into your budget.
What was the main use of the boat?The purpose that the boat has been used for may have an effect on its condition. For example, boats that are used mainly for fishing tend to run up a large number of engine hours.
Inspecting the BoatThe next step is to arrange a viewing. This is a vital part of the buying process; it enables you to see what you are getting before you part with any money. Choose a recognised Yacht Broker, a company with knowledgeable sales staff, who will listen to your needs, suggest the right boat and help you choose.
It is recommended that you use a surveyor (someone like myself!) to carry out a detailed inspection of the boat. I like you to be present at the survey so that you can ask questions.
At the moment, anyone can call themselves a marine surveyor, so it is important to make sure that yours is accredited by the relevant authority. Using a surveyor will give you peace of mind, and your finance company and insurance company may insist upon it. You should never rely on an old survey - new problems may have occurred since it was carried out. If you are experienced and confident enough, you may be able to perform an inspection yourself. Here are some things to look out for:
Check for any oil leaks around gaskets and hoses.
Inspect the level and condition of the oil. A milky appearance to the oil is a sign that water may be leaking into the engine. A burned smell or any grit in the oil, are additional indications of mechanical problems, whilst a chalky residue on the engine or drive would signal that the engine has been running hot.
Examine all the hoses and belts. Are they cracked or degraded? Smell for fuel leaks from hoses, and check that the fuel tanks are sound.
Are the engine mounts sturdy?
Do the sacrificial anodes (if applicable) need replacing?
The crankcase and gear oils will be checked if clean and at the correct levels. The water cooling cap will be lifted to see if there are any signs of oil emulsification inside.(could indicate a head gasket problem).
Engine throttle and gear controls will be checked for security and smooth operational.
A simple audio test will be carried out, checking for undue knocks in the bearings or running gear, making sure I cant hear any undue noise, piton slap, or bearing failure indicating that the machinery is functioning correctly.
http://www.insightmarinesurveyors.co.uk/diesel-engines
Sea trial
If everything is up to standards, it's time to take the boat for a test drive. This can be done quite easily at most boat yards with a crane. Before you start the engine, you should check to make sure if the engine is already warm; if the engine has trouble starting or smokes a lot when cold, the seller may have warmed-up the engine prior to your arrival to disguise such problems.
You should check the bilges, both at the start and end of the trial; you're looking for any evidence of an oil leak. See how the boat performs when moving around. Is the steering responsive? Experiment with hitting waves from different angles, looking for excessive pitch or roll. Try out these factors whilst above and below deck. Test that all the instruments are working correctly, and run the engine for long enough to see if it'll overheat.
If you're trialling a sailing boat, put the sails up, and see how she manoeuvres under wind power alone. If she’s on the Norfolk Broads where I live, will she go under the bridges? She will need to have a quality purpose built ‘A’ frame to achieve this. Try out different points of sail. Examine the mast and rigging under load. If the boat does not pass on any of your tests, you do not necessarily need to rule it out, as long as you are willing to put some time (and money) into putting things right. Any imperfections I find can be used as bargaining tools to try to negotiate a lower price!
Get it in writingIf you decide to purchase the boat, it is best to get everything put down in writing in a Sales Agreement. This should state the terms and amount of payment, and detail any pre-sale repairs that have been agreed on - making clear who is responsible for carrying them out and paying for them. It should also list which accessories are included and the delivery and payment dates.
A good Yacht Broker should make a meticulous check of all aspects of the paperwork that comes with the boat; looking at title, history, finance and registration to make sure that no problems will arise in the future. Take a look at Norfolk Yacht Agency its the region’s largest dedicated new and used boat sales centre.
http://www.nya.co.uk/73_quality-used-boats-from-nya
Beware of fraud There are a few things to watch out for to make sure you are not the victim of fraud when you buy a boat:
Make sure that you get the real address of the seller; you should be suspicious of anyone who only uses a PO Box.
Verify all the contact details of the seller. If there is an email address, make sure you can get a reply from them. Get a telephone number for them and make sure it works.
If the boat is in a different country to the seller, be extra cautious, and take even more care if either are outside of your own country.
If anything just doesn't seem right, don't dismiss those feelings until you've checked them out. Often your instincts are correct.
The International Institute of Marine Surveying
The Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors (SAMS)
The National Association of Marine Surveyors (NAMS)
Saturday 22 December 2012
Happy Xmas - and Thank You
I love Norfolk for so many reasons. Norfolk has given me and my daughter so many opportunities. I simply adore the rural villages dotted throughout our North Norfolk Coastline. I love the expanse, wilderness, big skies, freedom and all the wonderful characters that make Norfolk such a great place to live in. I love the many redundant churches, old ruins, old pubs!, fishing villages, the slower pace of life, the ability to breathe non-toxic fumes, etc. I especially love the traditional broads boats, the yachts, and the unique sailing….Thank you Norfolk for giving me so much."
I just want to say a big ‘Thank You’ to all my clients and associates ive worked alongside this year, and that its been a pleasure working with you. I hope you and your family’s have a wonderful Holiday and a Happy and prosperous 2013.
Thursday 20 December 2012
Broom 37 Continental
 |
| The Broom Continental was launched in 1968 and 186 were built |
 |
| Designed by John Bennett the hulls were actually moulded by Aquafibre... basically the same boat as the 37 Crown but with a restyled interior |
Well that was my last job for 2012...and a trip to Penton Hook Marina in London to Survey this Broom Classic TSMY. They have a reputation as immensely sea-worthy and bringing together all the key layout features that have characterised Brooms boats ever since, the 37 Continental can fairly be said to be the grandmother of "Aft Cabins - Forward Thinking"!
Twin v-berths in the forward cabin and two singles in the aft cabin provide permanent berths for four, whilst the settee in the saloon converts to another double berth. All boats feature interior and exterior helms and have sliding doors on both sides of the saloon giving access to the side decks.
Power is provided by twin 145hp turbo-charged Perkins 6.354 diesels.
Surveyors comments: It inevitable that you might find some small osmotic blisters on the underbody. As long as these have not reached serious proportions they should not affect either the structural integrity, value or seaworthiness of the boat... and no remedial action is usualy neccessary.
Window seals on a boat of this age will normally show some signs of leakage and you may also come across some damage to the interior wood panelling around the windows.
To stop windows leaking you may have use a non-hardening caulking so that the caulking can move with the expansion. To deal with this problem, you may have to remove the frames, rebed them and refasten them less tightly than they were previously installed. This can be expensive so it’s a good idea to get some costings before proceeding with the sale. I must say the window seals on this boat were very good, and this was an Insurance Survey and not for Pre-purchase.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
Santa dashes through Broads in a space-age solar boat
Children in Norfolk had a very unusual visit from Santa - arriving across Whitlingham Broad by solar powered boat!
South Norfolk Council and the Broads Authority got together with Creative Arts East and the Whitlingham Charitable Trust to put together a magical Winter Wonderland event to celebrate Christmas early.
Councillor Martin Wilby, Cabinet member at South Norfolk Council for Communities and Localism said:
"This is always a bit of a special day in the Christmas calendar at Whitlingham Broad. Whatever the weather it will be spectacular and fun."
Lucy Burchnall, Deputy Head Ranger said: “The Broads Authority was delighted to be able to lend Santa its futuristic solar powered boat so he could get to Whitlingham Broad. This magical event is always very popular and the special delivery by Santa is the icing on the Christmas cake
Friday 14 December 2012
Seamster 813
I had a visit to Woods Dyke in Horning on Friday to Survey this popular little boat. This boat was designed by John Welsh. The medium to shallow V hull together with a long shallow keel allows for an easily handling cruiser.
Several other manufactures used Seamaster moulding to produce their own versions. This includes Ardvark Aird marine and latterly Bounty Boats. The hull is still used today by Viking 26 with their 26ft widebeam.
The factory built boat is unique in having through standing V berth configuration forward but with the shower toilet compartment extending across the width of the boat. A conventional dinette and galley area is further aft.
The craft also has a square foredeck to offer more space. This model has a particular emphasis on reducing production costs, over 400 of these boats were made.
The engine installation vary enormously from single petrol shaft drive to twin diesel. Some models had Volvo petrols with outdrive. This one had a single Perkins diesel on shaft.
Seamaster boats goes back to 1944 when Dick Sparrow(originally a cabinet maker)left London with his caravan, arriving to a field in Dunmow, Essex, which he eventually bought together with some ex W.D. tin sheds. These were used for Dick's original business, making toys, before going into caravan production. These models were called Vanmaster, and 250 caravans were built in total. In 1951, Vanmaster branched into a small boat production, introducing the Seamaster name. Up until 1960, the company was hugely successful, building some 200 craft between 17ft and 26ft.
Surveyors comments
Its becoming increasing common on my Surveys to see bilge pump outlets fitted through the hull very close to the water line. It must be high enough to remain above the water at the deepest angle of heel…see image above...or safer still stick a riser loop in it or a non return valve. Its one of the most common ways a boat sinks. Heres some tips on installing bilge pumps.
Mount the pump
You must not place the pump in the bilge unrestrained. If it falls over it will suck air and burn out. Pumps must be fastened down. Brackets are available that attach to a stringer or other vertical feature, or you can epoxy a couple of bolts to the bottom of the bilge to serve as mounting studs.
Float switches must also be fastened.
Use smooth-bore hose
Corrugated hose reduces pump output by as much as 30%, so always connect the pump to the discharge fitting with hose that has a smooth interior surface.
Bends and long runs also reduce pump output, so make the hose run as straight and as short as possible. That may mean discharging the pump through the side of the hull rather than through the transom. However. . .
Place the discharge above the waterline
If the discharge is submerged when the pump runs, the ocean siphons back through the pump into the bilge when the pump shuts off. When enough water has entered to float the switch, the pump will eject it, only to have it siphon back again. This continues until the battery is depleted, then the water floods the boat until it reaches a level that gets the crew's attention.
The discharge fitting must never go below the waterline. If the fitting is through the transom, be sure it is high enough not to submerge when the stern squats. And if it is through the side of the hull, it must be high enough to remain above the water at the deepest angle of heel.
Use a thin-wall fitting
The through-hull fitting can further reduce pump capacity. To minimize this restriction, use a fitting with the largest possible opening.
Lead wiring up
It is essential to get the pump wiring out of the bilge as quickly as possible. Run the wires up and secure them so that they do not sag into the bilge water.
Don't skimp on wire size
A 3,500 gph pump will draw 15 amps, typically necessitating 10-gauge, or maybe even 8-gauge wire. Consult the ABYC Wire Size Table to determine the appropriate wire for your pump and length of wire run.
Use butt connectors and heat shrink
Crimp-on step-down butt connectors will assure a good mechanical and electrical connection between the supply wires and the pump leads. Enclose these connections in adhesive heat shrink tubing to make them water tight. You must slide the heat shrink over the wire and out of the way before you make the connections. Then center the tubing over the crimped connector and shrink it with a heat gun or by playing a flame beneath it. Be sure there are no explosive fumes in the bilge!
Connect to the battery
When you turn the power off to leave the boat unattended, you don't want to turn off the bilge pump. Connect an automatic bilge pump directly to the battery, not through the distribution panel.
Fuse the positive side
It is essential to have a fuse in the positive wire as close to the battery as possible. Some switch panels (see below) include a fuse. Otherwise join an in-line fuse holder to the battery end of the positive wire using a crimp butt connector.
Install terminal fittings
Do not strip the ends of the supply wires and loop them beneath the battery terminal wing nuts. Install crimp-on ring terminals the proper size to fit the threaded posts on your battery. Use a copper washer-not steel-between the wing nut and the ring terminal.
Three-way switch
If your bilge pump has a separate float switch, you may want to wire it to a three way switch that allows you to select automatic, on, or off. Be sure to support all wire runs at least every 18 inches using cable clamps or ties.
Two pumps
A bilge pump big enough to deal with a real emergency will do a poor job of keeping the bilge dry because the water in the discharge hose drains back into the bilge when the pump shuts off. And a big pump requires a big hose.
The ideal bilge pump arrangement is a small (400 gph) automatic bilge pump mounted in the sump to dispense with rain and shaft-gland leakage, combined with a high capacity pump (3,500 gph) mounted higher to deal with more serious ingress.
Stepping the discharge hose from the small pump down to 1/2-inch minimizes the backflow from the hose when the pump cycles, maintaining a dryer bilge. The large pump can be wired to a float switch if you prefer, but I think a manual switch makes more sense. An added advantage of this bilge pump configuration is that the high-capacity pump sits high and dry, extending its life indefinitely.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
Several other manufactures used Seamaster moulding to produce their own versions. This includes Ardvark Aird marine and latterly Bounty Boats. The hull is still used today by Viking 26 with their 26ft widebeam.
The factory built boat is unique in having through standing V berth configuration forward but with the shower toilet compartment extending across the width of the boat. A conventional dinette and galley area is further aft.
The craft also has a square foredeck to offer more space. This model has a particular emphasis on reducing production costs, over 400 of these boats were made.
The engine installation vary enormously from single petrol shaft drive to twin diesel. Some models had Volvo petrols with outdrive. This one had a single Perkins diesel on shaft.
 |
| The guys from Ferry Marine lifting her out for Survey. |
Seamaster boats goes back to 1944 when Dick Sparrow(originally a cabinet maker)left London with his caravan, arriving to a field in Dunmow, Essex, which he eventually bought together with some ex W.D. tin sheds. These were used for Dick's original business, making toys, before going into caravan production. These models were called Vanmaster, and 250 caravans were built in total. In 1951, Vanmaster branched into a small boat production, introducing the Seamaster name. Up until 1960, the company was hugely successful, building some 200 craft between 17ft and 26ft.
Surveyors comments
Its becoming increasing common on my Surveys to see bilge pump outlets fitted through the hull very close to the water line. It must be high enough to remain above the water at the deepest angle of heel…see image above...or safer still stick a riser loop in it or a non return valve. Its one of the most common ways a boat sinks. Heres some tips on installing bilge pumps.
Mount the pump
You must not place the pump in the bilge unrestrained. If it falls over it will suck air and burn out. Pumps must be fastened down. Brackets are available that attach to a stringer or other vertical feature, or you can epoxy a couple of bolts to the bottom of the bilge to serve as mounting studs.
Float switches must also be fastened.
Use smooth-bore hose
Corrugated hose reduces pump output by as much as 30%, so always connect the pump to the discharge fitting with hose that has a smooth interior surface.
Bends and long runs also reduce pump output, so make the hose run as straight and as short as possible. That may mean discharging the pump through the side of the hull rather than through the transom. However. . .
Place the discharge above the waterline
If the discharge is submerged when the pump runs, the ocean siphons back through the pump into the bilge when the pump shuts off. When enough water has entered to float the switch, the pump will eject it, only to have it siphon back again. This continues until the battery is depleted, then the water floods the boat until it reaches a level that gets the crew's attention.
The discharge fitting must never go below the waterline. If the fitting is through the transom, be sure it is high enough not to submerge when the stern squats. And if it is through the side of the hull, it must be high enough to remain above the water at the deepest angle of heel.
Use a thin-wall fitting
The through-hull fitting can further reduce pump capacity. To minimize this restriction, use a fitting with the largest possible opening.
Lead wiring up
It is essential to get the pump wiring out of the bilge as quickly as possible. Run the wires up and secure them so that they do not sag into the bilge water.
Don't skimp on wire size
A 3,500 gph pump will draw 15 amps, typically necessitating 10-gauge, or maybe even 8-gauge wire. Consult the ABYC Wire Size Table to determine the appropriate wire for your pump and length of wire run.
Use butt connectors and heat shrink
Crimp-on step-down butt connectors will assure a good mechanical and electrical connection between the supply wires and the pump leads. Enclose these connections in adhesive heat shrink tubing to make them water tight. You must slide the heat shrink over the wire and out of the way before you make the connections. Then center the tubing over the crimped connector and shrink it with a heat gun or by playing a flame beneath it. Be sure there are no explosive fumes in the bilge!
Connect to the battery
When you turn the power off to leave the boat unattended, you don't want to turn off the bilge pump. Connect an automatic bilge pump directly to the battery, not through the distribution panel.
Fuse the positive side
It is essential to have a fuse in the positive wire as close to the battery as possible. Some switch panels (see below) include a fuse. Otherwise join an in-line fuse holder to the battery end of the positive wire using a crimp butt connector.
Install terminal fittings
Do not strip the ends of the supply wires and loop them beneath the battery terminal wing nuts. Install crimp-on ring terminals the proper size to fit the threaded posts on your battery. Use a copper washer-not steel-between the wing nut and the ring terminal.
Three-way switch
If your bilge pump has a separate float switch, you may want to wire it to a three way switch that allows you to select automatic, on, or off. Be sure to support all wire runs at least every 18 inches using cable clamps or ties.
Two pumps
A bilge pump big enough to deal with a real emergency will do a poor job of keeping the bilge dry because the water in the discharge hose drains back into the bilge when the pump shuts off. And a big pump requires a big hose.
The ideal bilge pump arrangement is a small (400 gph) automatic bilge pump mounted in the sump to dispense with rain and shaft-gland leakage, combined with a high capacity pump (3,500 gph) mounted higher to deal with more serious ingress.
Stepping the discharge hose from the small pump down to 1/2-inch minimizes the backflow from the hose when the pump cycles, maintaining a dryer bilge. The large pump can be wired to a float switch if you prefer, but I think a manual switch makes more sense. An added advantage of this bilge pump configuration is that the high-capacity pump sits high and dry, extending its life indefinitely.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
Tuesday 11 December 2012
Ribcraft 9m
I had a visit to Anglia ycaht Brokers yesterday to inspect this Rib for a client in the Netherlands. Ribcraft are based in their own purpose built factory in Yeovil Somerset. They are one of the few British manufacturers who have the capabilities to design and manufacture the complete boat 'in house' giving us total quality control throughout.
Ribcraft's Hulls can be constructed in Aluminium, G.R.P. or composite materials, into highly polished tooling moulds Lloyds approved Chop Strand Mat and roving clothes are placed and laminated into position by Ribcraft's highly skilled laminators. All stages of construction are closely monitored by computer to ensure correct humidity and temperature resulting in even curing and an immensely strong blister free hull. All Ribcraft tubes come with a minimum of five independent air chambers as standard. Ribcraft tubes are cut to exacting patterns Using 1100 or 1670 Dtex Hypalon®, all seams are carefully overlapped and double taped internally and externally.
Surveyors comments: Inspect the hull for cracks, chips and grazing, in particular along the spray rails and chines. Hairline cracks running across the beam of the hull and any longitudinal cracks are the principal elements to look out for. Either of these could indicate substantial damage. Minor grazing, small star cracks (stress) emanating from pressure points and chips in the chines may detract from the boat's appearance, but are usually superficial and require a relatively easy and inexpensive repair job. Deck and transom damage is rare. However, points to look for are spongy decks caused by fuel or water logging. The problem will require the attention of an expert and a great deal of expense. Check the transom around its base and its bearer's knees. Minor cracks in both the base and at the top of the knees can be common, but generally do not indicate major damage. Seating and console upholstery condition are visually easy to see, but do check the deck attachment of the console, the seat hinges and the water tightness of any integral storage areas. Check the location of fuel tanks and battery do you really want them both located in the same deck space? One spark and perhaps a very loud bang! Inspect all fittings, pipes and breathers for signs of damage. Check out accessibility if a damaged fuel tank has to be replaced. This can be quite expensive if the design and construction has not taken this possibility into account.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
Ribcraft's Hulls can be constructed in Aluminium, G.R.P. or composite materials, into highly polished tooling moulds Lloyds approved Chop Strand Mat and roving clothes are placed and laminated into position by Ribcraft's highly skilled laminators. All stages of construction are closely monitored by computer to ensure correct humidity and temperature resulting in even curing and an immensely strong blister free hull. All Ribcraft tubes come with a minimum of five independent air chambers as standard. Ribcraft tubes are cut to exacting patterns Using 1100 or 1670 Dtex Hypalon®, all seams are carefully overlapped and double taped internally and externally.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
Saturday 8 December 2012
Broom Commander
I had the pleasure of Surveying this Broads Classic yesterday. The 37ft Broom Commander Cynric was one of the final wooden motor cruisers to be built by the Norfolk based CJ Broom & Sons.
The Commander class was part of Brooms well known trio of motor cruisers built during the 1950s and 60s, however Cynric deviated from the standard design in that she was the only Commander to have twin screws - a definite advantage with regards to manoeuvrability - and one of only two examples of her class to have the enlarged fixed wheelhouse based on the design for the Broom 45.
She is a product of the era of the tall sided majestic looking wooden Broadland Motor Cruisers designed specifically for inland waters and estuary use.
Surveyors Comments: You can still buy older, big wooden craft for about £15,000 on the Norfolk Broads. Definitely get a Full Out of Water Survey on these types of boats, lovely as they are…. you could be sailing away with a never-ending drain on your bank balance? If you would like a Broom Commander.... Brooms Boats have one for sale called White Heron. Here is the addy....
The Commander class was part of Brooms well known trio of motor cruisers built during the 1950s and 60s, however Cynric deviated from the standard design in that she was the only Commander to have twin screws - a definite advantage with regards to manoeuvrability - and one of only two examples of her class to have the enlarged fixed wheelhouse based on the design for the Broom 45.
She is a product of the era of the tall sided majestic looking wooden Broadland Motor Cruisers designed specifically for inland waters and estuary use.
Surveyors Comments: You can still buy older, big wooden craft for about £15,000 on the Norfolk Broads. Definitely get a Full Out of Water Survey on these types of boats, lovely as they are…. you could be sailing away with a never-ending drain on your bank balance? If you would like a Broom Commander.... Brooms Boats have one for sale called White Heron. Here is the addy....
Thursday 6 December 2012
Broom 30 for sale in Norfolk Uk
I had another visit to Brooms Boats in Brundall today on the South Norfolk Broads. They are still selling lots of boats considering the time of year.
This craft moulded by Aquafibre of Rackheath Norfolk uses the same hull as the Ocean 30 namely a round bilge displacement cruiser with keel. The centre cockpit configuration provides berthing for up to 6 people. The boat is prominent in design featuring an enclosed wheelhouse. The skipper version had a folding screen and canopy over the centre cockpit. This had the twin Perkins engine, capable of coast and estuary work. Engines were usually single Perkins 4107/4108.
The superstructure and interior were designed by Mr Martin Broom and four pre-1968 boats had a mahogany superstructure and teak-laid deck, after which time the construction was all GRP. Wooden uprights in the forward windscreen and wooden wheelhouse door frames were also phased out in later models.
Surveyors comments: Good ones don’t stay on the market very long. Expect to pay up to £40k for a good blue or green one. White twin engine ones with the upper helms fetch 45K
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at:
steventruss1@aol.com
This craft moulded by Aquafibre of Rackheath Norfolk uses the same hull as the Ocean 30 namely a round bilge displacement cruiser with keel. The centre cockpit configuration provides berthing for up to 6 people. The boat is prominent in design featuring an enclosed wheelhouse. The skipper version had a folding screen and canopy over the centre cockpit. This had the twin Perkins engine, capable of coast and estuary work. Engines were usually single Perkins 4107/4108.
The superstructure and interior were designed by Mr Martin Broom and four pre-1968 boats had a mahogany superstructure and teak-laid deck, after which time the construction was all GRP. Wooden uprights in the forward windscreen and wooden wheelhouse door frames were also phased out in later models.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at:
steventruss1@aol.com
Wednesday 5 December 2012
Sealine F42/5 Motor Yacht
I had a trip up to Lincoln and Burton Waters yesterday to Survey this Sealine F42 Motor Yacht.
Sealine has been designing and building boats for more than 30 years. It was founded in 1972 by Tom Murrant, who started out with nothing but the belief that he could make a boat better than those available on the market at that time.
Despite the company's overwhelming success and expansion over the years, Sealine remains at its original location in the West Midlands, England's industrial heart. People passionate about boating run the company. Staff are highly skilled, experienced boat builders and some have been employed since the first Sealine cruiser, the 23ft 'Continental', was born.
Boasting a workforce of more than 700, Sealine employees are specialists in their respective fields, which includes everything from mould-making to wood/metal work, upholstery, lamination and interior design.
Today, Sealine is one of Europe's largest production luxury boat builders, producing more than 300 boats a year.
Surveys comments: Always impressed with the hulls on the Sealine boats. They have solid fiberglass hull bottoms supported by a closely spaced network of longitudinal and transverse fiberglass stiffeners. Combinations of stitched and woven reinforcements are used with polyester resin. Balsa-coring stiffens the hull sides, decks and superstructure, and molded fiberglass liners define the interior.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
Sealine has been designing and building boats for more than 30 years. It was founded in 1972 by Tom Murrant, who started out with nothing but the belief that he could make a boat better than those available on the market at that time.
Despite the company's overwhelming success and expansion over the years, Sealine remains at its original location in the West Midlands, England's industrial heart. People passionate about boating run the company. Staff are highly skilled, experienced boat builders and some have been employed since the first Sealine cruiser, the 23ft 'Continental', was born.
Boasting a workforce of more than 700, Sealine employees are specialists in their respective fields, which includes everything from mould-making to wood/metal work, upholstery, lamination and interior design.
Today, Sealine is one of Europe's largest production luxury boat builders, producing more than 300 boats a year.
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| A touch of a button engages Sealine's patented extending cockpit system on this model. The entire transom slides back, extending its length by three feet and almost doubling the aft cockpit's area. With the cockpit extended you can throw in a big table and six chairs for those that can't fit on the transom lounge. So 10 people can sit down in comfort to enjoy an alfresco meal in idyllic surroundings. |
Surveys comments: Always impressed with the hulls on the Sealine boats. They have solid fiberglass hull bottoms supported by a closely spaced network of longitudinal and transverse fiberglass stiffeners. Combinations of stitched and woven reinforcements are used with polyester resin. Balsa-coring stiffens the hull sides, decks and superstructure, and molded fiberglass liners define the interior.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
Wednesday 28 November 2012
Rainwater makes new Broads wash-down system a first
Eric Bishop, the boatyard manager, and his team, were keen to ensure that the run-off water from around 200 boats they wash down each year has no detrimental impact on the environment.
They have devised a closed-loop system that not only harvests and uses rainwater from the boatyard’s roof, but also passes all used water through a set of purifying filters. The cleaned water can then either be used again, or discharged safely into the Broads.
Closed-loop systems have been used on a limited basis elsewhere in the country before, but this is believed to be the first time that harvested rainwater has been incorporated into the design.
Pressure washing is a vital method of keeping boat hulls in a good state of repair, by removing old anti-fouling coating, paint, weed, algae and invasive species, especially in the autumn before boats are over-wintered. Unfortunately, the run-off water from this type of high-pressure cleaning can contain antifouling residues, paint fragments and other chemicals, all of which could work their way into rivers and waterways. The new system at Cox’s means that not only pure, clean water is discharged, but also that it can be recycled and re-used, along with harvested rainwater, many times on an endless loop.
Eric Bishop says: “We are keen to implement any systems that help preserve the future of the Broads for both wildlife and for boat owners. This £18,000 system is part of a major eight-phased development plan for the boatyard. It took only five weeks to install, and it is already doing a great job. We are looking forward to further improving our services to boat owners in the future.’
The system collects rainwater and stores it in a 6250-litre tank, from where it is piped to an area used for pressure washing. Boats that need cleaning are suspended from the yard’s crane, which can lift up to 9.5 tons, and positioned above a large concrete pad, with angled sides that funnel the run-off water into a small, central drain and tank. Here water-borne particles and debris, as well as invasive species such as the ‘killer shrimp’ (Dikerogammarus villosus) settle out from the main body of collected water and sink to the bottom. Killer shrimps are aggressive predators that prey on native shrimps and young fish, and they have recently been found in Barton Broad, so any system that helps to prevent their spread has great environmental importance.
Once the larger debris is removed, an automatic pump sends the waste water via a pipe to a 4000-litre storage tank, which is situated alongside the rainwater tank. When this second tank is two-thirds full, the water is pumped at a rate of 85 litres per minute though two special filters, which are reusable and washable, to remove any remaining pollutants.
The pure, filtered water can then either be re-used, or returned to the river, meaning that even in a drought when there is little or no rain water there is always an ample supply of water available for washing down the boats. Neither does cold weather cause any problems, as all the pipes and cables have special heat cables fitted to them to stop them freezing.
Monday 26 November 2012
Half Broads' boats will see no increase in next year's tolls
Over half the boats on the Broads will see their tolls reduced or remain the same next season as a result of the Broads Authority’s long-term aim to encourage more people to take up boating.
At its meeting on 23 November the Authority agreed an overall rise of 3% in income from tolls from April which will see small boats paying less than this year and larger boats paying more. This compares to other waterways where charges will rise by 4.6%.
A total of 5,700 private rowing, sailing and motor boats out of a total of 10,900 will see a reduction or no increase at all. The charge for private motor boats of under 5 square metres is to be reduced from £97.44 to £90.00 to narrow the gap in charges with unpowered boats of the same size. The annual toll for a small sailing boat will fall from £48.72 to £45.00. Hired day boats of 11 square metres will see a decrease of 2.69% from £439.52 to £427.68. A larger private motor boat of 25 square metres will go up by £12.00 to £267.60.
The charges for seven day short visit tolls are to be reduced from 70% to 50% of the 14 day visit toll as an incentive to visiting craft. Ferries will be charged at the private rate to encourage the return of these historic waterway links.
Chairman of the Broads Authority, Dr Stephen Johnson, said: “The system was reviewed to encourage more people, especially young people, to get out on the water with the aim of promoting health, well-being and the enjoyment of Britain’s magical waterland. It also recognises the popularity of angling which is often done from small boats.”
The Broads Authority still faces big challenges, especially dredging the rivers and broads and maintaining its assets, including 4km of public moorings. Prudent budgeting, down-sizing to smaller offices, astute second-hand deals with equipment for the dockyard and European funding for key dredging projects, has helped with the Authority’s finances.
John Packman, Chief Executive of the Broads Authority, said: “We have a major investment programme underway, including the building of a new workshop to maintain our workboats, the purchase of a new mud wherry for our dredging operations and a programme of safety improvements on Breydon Water including a new, more appropriate patrol launch for the estuary.”
Friday 23 November 2012
How much do you know about Broads invasive species?
The Broads Authority is running an online survey to find out if its campaign to curb the spread of new aquatic aliens is reaching water users.
It takes just five minutes to complete and will help in future public campaigns.
The latest arrival to the Broads is the killer shrimp, Dikerogammarus villosus, which was discovered in Barton Broad in March this year and has since spread up the River Ant as far as Wayford Bridge and downstream into the Bure.
All users of the Broads are being asked to check their equipment and clothes for live organisms, wash them off and dry them out thoroughly to avoid spreading the shrimp to other waterways.
Will Burchnall was appointed to the new post of Wetlands Biosecurity Officer by the Broads Authority, co-funded by the Environment Agency, Natural England and Defra, to promote awareness of damaging invasive species.
He said: “Since the arrival of the killer shrimp I have worked closely with boating organisations, sailing and rowing clubs and anglers to raise awareness of the Check, Clean, Dry campaign. We would now like to know if the message has got through or if more work needs to be done.
“We are most concerned to protect water bodies isolated from the main Broads system, such as the Trinity and Whitlingham Broads, from invasion by these aliens as they could endanger the very delicate eco-system. If people could spare five minutes to fill in the survey it will help us to know how effective our campaign has been and where we go from here.”
Tuesday 20 November 2012
Rebel One Design Keel Boat
I had a trip to Belaugh Boats today in Hoverton Wroxham on the Northern Broads. I was amazed to see ‘Rebel One’ sitting in their shed and apparently up for sale as an ongoing project. Shes open to offers…..how much is she worth… any comments?
Here is mine number 11 Rebel Chieftain.. This will give you an idea of what she could look like. Ive owned some boats over the years but Chieftain will take some beating… the Rebel Class are amazing to sail…perfect for the Norfolk Broads….and there are only a dozen left…..on the planet!
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
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| So far she’s been replanked and refastened on one side.. and she’s had lots of ribs replaced.. She’s holding very good lines with no sagging or hogging identified. The keel looked sound. She still requires the bulkheads and thwarts to be fitted along with the deck and deck fittings etc. Apparently there are some spars somewhere in the shed! |
Here is mine number 11 Rebel Chieftain.. This will give you an idea of what she could look like. Ive owned some boats over the years but Chieftain will take some beating… the Rebel Class are amazing to sail…perfect for the Norfolk Broads….and there are only a dozen left…..on the planet!
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