Thinking about buying or insuring a boat in Preveza Greece??

Thursday, 27 December 2012

Buying a boat in 2013

Buying a boat 2013?
Whatever the type of boat you are buying, be it a dinghy or a super yacht, the same general rules apply. Follow these principles and you can buy your boat with confidence.


Dont forget this years show... the perfect start place if your thinking of buying this year
New or used?
After you've decided what type of boat to buy, the next step is to decide whether you want to buy a new or used boat. Buying a new boat from a dealer will avoid many of the difficulties that are associated with buying a used boat. For example, new boats will come with a warranty and you'll have more confidence that the boat you are buying has not previously been stolen. The down-sides to buying a new boat, however are that the initial cost is much higher, the value will depreciate rapidly and new boats are generally less well equipped than used boats. Take a look at Haines Marine …one of the local boat builders to the Norfolk Broads, and see their latest models:

http://www.nya.co.uk/14_new-haines-range.html

Buying a used boat
If you'd prefer to save some money and buy a boat whose value will not drop so sharply, then buying a used boat is the sensible choice to make. The rest of this article is devoted to tips on buying used boats.

Specialists in used boats from Haines
Haines on the Broads have a unique depth of knowledge about the current range and earlier models. They have known many of their boats since before they were launched.

The quality of build ensures that Haines cruisers give many years of enjoyment. A used model is an excellent introduction to the brand and makes a good first boat for customers wanting to get into cruising. Not many people want to part with a Haines so used models can be difficult to find. However we know where they are and are best placed to find the boat that you want. The popularity of Haines means that we are always in the market for used models.

If you are buying a used boat from a private seller, it will generally come with no warranty, so you need to check it out carefully to avoid making an expensive mistake. Many brokers and dealers sell used boats as well as new, and may offer a limited warranty. Whilst this may provide some peace of mind, the broker/dealer needs to make a commission on the sale and this will be reflected in a higher price than if the boat was being sold privately.

Stock BoatsThese are becoming increasingly popular and are well worth thinking about. Check out Norfolk Yacht Agency on the Norfolk Broads they have a large selection of stock boats for the 2013 season.

http://www.nya.co.uk/76_Stock%20boat%20warranty.html

These boats have been pre- inspected and tested by qualified Marine Engineers who work for the company. All items of equipment will work at time of handover (unless marked otherwise and excluded from the boat’s specification). In most cases our preparation will include a polish, antifoul and engine service where necessary. You will be invited for a comprehensive handover to demonstrate and explain the boat’s equipment. After handover, the engines and gearboxes are warranted against major faults for the next 3 months.

Why is the boat being sold?Before you even inspect the boat there are a few checks that you can make to ensure you don't waste your valuable time and effort: Check out the builder of your chosen boat. Is it a highly regarded brand? Are they still trading? If not, it may prove difficult to obtain replacement parts when needed. This question can give you some clues as to how well the boat has been looked after before you even see it. If the boat is a repossession, it may indicate that the boat has not been looked after; if the owner didn't keep up payments to the financer, then he may have shown the same lack of care for the maintenance of the boat (of course this is a generalisation). If the boat is being sold because the owner is moving up to a larger boat, then this might indicate that the owner is a real boating enthusiast, and thus may have taken greater care in the upkeep of the boat. If the reason for selling is that there's a problem with the boat, then be aware that if you buy that boat, you will be the new owner of that problem!

Find out if the boat has a full maintenance logThis should list all services, repair, and oil changes. If it's missing, it can be hard to tell how well the boat has been looked after.



Does it have all the equipment you need?
For example, navigation, lights, winches etc. If not present, you will have to buy that equipment separately, so build that into your budget.

What was the main use of the boat?The purpose that the boat has been used for may have an effect on its condition. For example, boats that are used mainly for fishing tend to run up a large number of engine hours.

Inspecting the BoatThe next step is to arrange a viewing. This is a vital part of the buying process; it enables you to see what you are getting before you part with any money. Choose a recognised Yacht Broker, a company with knowledgeable sales staff, who will listen to your needs, suggest the right boat and help you choose.

It is recommended that you use a surveyor (someone like myself!) to carry out a detailed inspection of the boat. I like you to be present at the survey so that you can ask questions.

At the moment, anyone can call themselves a marine surveyor, so it is important to make sure that yours is accredited by the relevant authority. Using a surveyor will give you peace of mind, and your finance company and insurance company may insist upon it. You should never rely on an old survey - new problems may have occurred since it was carried out. If you are experienced and confident enough, you may be able to perform an inspection yourself. Here are some things to look out for:
  • Has the boat been looked after well? Start by looking at obvious features such as the gel coat, woodwork and upholstery. If these haven't been maintained then there's a good chance the rest of the boat has not had much care either.
  • Check all wooden decking and interior woodwork for any soft spots.
  • Are any parts of the exterior paintwork poorly matching? This may indicate a previous accident which, in itself, may not be enough to dismiss the boat, but if the owner has not already mentioned it to you, then what else have they not told you?
  • Check that all the control cables (for steering, throttle etc.) are in good working order. The steering and transmission should move freely.
  • Look for water lines inside the boat or on the engine. These would indicate that the boat has flooded in the past.
  • Open and close all the hatches and sea cocks to ensure they're in good working order. If there are any water marks inside the hatches, it would indicate that they are no longer water-tight.
  • You should test out all the systems such as, bilge pump, winches, freshwater system, lights, fridges, heater and air conditioning, generator, stove etc.
  • Check that all hardware is attached firmly, and that electrical items and connections are free from rust.
  • Examine the hull all over, taking note of its general condition and looking for any dents, cracks or chips in the gel coat if applicable. Tapping a fibreglass hull lightly with a rubber hammer, listening for voids, can help reveal any blistering or delamination. Any fittings that go through the hull should be checked to make sure they are tight and won't leak.
  • Find the hull registration number, and make sure it is present, doesn't look like it has been tampered with, and matches the number on the boat's registration and title documents. Missing or altered hull registration numbers indicate that the boat may be stolen. It is crucial that you ensure that you are not buying a stolen boat; if you do, you risk losing the boat and your money
  • It may not be practical to view the boat out of the water, but if possible, it'll allow you to continue your hull checks below the waterline. You can also check that the keel runs in a straight line from fore to aft, and that the propeller, shaft and rudder are straight; do they show any signs of a collision accident? Look for signs of cavitation, this manifests itself as an erosion of the surface of the propeller blades - an indication of poor performance. Make sure that the propeller and shaft do not wobble.
  • On a sailing boat, check that all the sails and rigging are in good order.
  • If possible, it may also be worth contacting the boat's previous owner, to get any further information; as they no longer have any interest in whether the boat is sold or not, they may be more likely to give you an impartial viewpoint than the current seller.
  • Engine checksIf you don't know a lot about engines it would be best to get a mechanic to look over the engine for you. I will check the following points during my Survey and probably take the boat for a quick run if this is practicable on the day.
    Ill check for the presence of oil in the bilges - a sign of an oil leak.
    Check for any oil leaks around gaskets and hoses.
    Inspect the level and condition of the oil. A milky appearance to the oil is a sign that water may be leaking into the engine. A burned smell or any grit in the oil, are additional indications of mechanical problems, whilst a chalky residue on the engine or drive would signal that the engine has been running hot.
    Examine all the hoses and belts. Are they cracked or degraded? Smell for fuel leaks from hoses, and check that the fuel tanks are sound.
    Are the engine mounts sturdy?
    Do the sacrificial anodes (if applicable) need replacing?
    The crankcase and gear oils will be checked if clean and at the correct levels. The water cooling cap will be lifted to see if there are any signs of oil emulsification inside.(could indicate a head gasket problem).
    Engine throttle and gear controls will be checked for security and smooth operational.
    A simple audio test will be carried out, checking for undue knocks in the bearings or running gear, making sure I cant hear any undue noise, piton slap, or bearing failure indicating that the machinery is functioning correctly.
    Its important to remember, diesel engines can deliver years of trouble-free service- given proper preventative maintenance procedures. Some general information is listed on my website with some troubleshooting tips and advice.
     http://www.insightmarinesurveyors.co.uk/diesel-engines

    Sea trial
    If everything is up to standards, it's time to take the boat for a test drive. This can be done quite easily at most boat yards with a crane. Before you start the engine, you should check to make sure if the engine is already warm; if the engine has trouble starting or smokes a lot when cold, the seller may have warmed-up the engine prior to your arrival to disguise such problems.

    You should check the bilges, both at the start and end of the trial; you're looking for any evidence of an oil leak. See how the boat performs when moving around. Is the steering responsive? Experiment with hitting waves from different angles, looking for excessive pitch or roll. Try out these factors whilst above and below deck. Test that all the instruments are working correctly, and run the engine for long enough to see if it'll overheat.

    If you're trialling a sailing boat, put the sails up, and see how she manoeuvres under wind power alone. If she’s on the Norfolk Broads where I live, will she go under the bridges? She will need to have a quality purpose built ‘A’ frame to achieve this. Try out different points of sail. Examine the mast and rigging under load. If the boat does not pass on any of your tests, you do not necessarily need to rule it out, as long as you are willing to put some time (and money) into putting things right. Any imperfections I find can be used as bargaining tools to try to negotiate a lower price!

    Get it in writingIf you decide to purchase the boat, it is best to get everything put down in writing in a Sales Agreement. This should state the terms and amount of payment, and detail any pre-sale repairs that have been agreed on - making clear who is responsible for carrying them out and paying for them. It should also list which accessories are included and the delivery and payment dates.

    A good Yacht Broker should make a meticulous check of all aspects of the paperwork that comes with the boat; looking at title, history, finance and registration to make sure that no problems will arise in the future. Take a look at Norfolk Yacht Agency its the region’s largest dedicated new and used boat sales centre.
     http://www.nya.co.uk/73_quality-used-boats-from-nya

    Beware of fraud There are a few things to watch out for to make sure you are not the victim of fraud when you buy a boat:
    Does the price seem too good to be true? If so, it probably is. The boat may either be stolen or the seller may take your deposit and never be contactable again.
    Make sure that you get the real address of the seller; you should be suspicious of anyone who only uses a PO Box.
    Verify all the contact details of the seller. If there is an email address, make sure you can get a reply from them. Get a telephone number for them and make sure it works.
    If the boat is in a different country to the seller, be extra cautious, and take even more care if either are outside of your own country.
    If anything just doesn't seem right, don't dismiss those feelings until you've checked them out. Often your instincts are correct.
    Some accreditation authorities for marine surveyorsRemember, if you are enlisting the services of a surveyor like myself, make sure that they are accredited by a well known authority. Some examples are listed below:
     
    The Yacht Designers and Surveyors Association


    The International Institute of Marine Surveying


    The Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors (SAMS)


    The National Association of Marine Surveyors (NAMS)

    Saturday, 22 December 2012

    Happy Xmas - and Thank You


    “Well that’s almost the end of 2012, and what a season its been. I completed just over 180 Boat Surveys in total, probably my best year to date and 80% of the work has been here on the Norfolk Broads. Its been really enjoyable and rewarding.

    I love Norfolk for so many reasons. Norfolk has given me and my daughter so many opportunities. I simply adore the rural villages dotted throughout our North Norfolk Coastline. I love the expanse, wilderness, big skies, freedom and all the wonderful characters that make Norfolk such a great place to live in. I love the many redundant churches, old ruins, old pubs!, fishing villages, the slower pace of life, the ability to breathe non-toxic fumes, etc. I especially love the traditional broads boats, the yachts, and the unique sailing….Thank you Norfolk for giving me so much."

    I just want to say a big ‘Thank You’ to all my clients and associates ive worked alongside this year, and that its been a pleasure working with you. I hope you and your family’s have a wonderful Holiday and a Happy and prosperous 2013.

    Thursday, 20 December 2012

    Broom 37 Continental

    The Broom Continental was launched in 1968 and 186 were built

    Designed by John Bennett the hulls were actually moulded by Aquafibre... basically the same boat as the 37 Crown but with a restyled interior




    Well that was my last job for 2012...and a trip to Penton Hook Marina in London to Survey this Broom Classic TSMY. They have a reputation as immensely sea-worthy and bringing together all the key layout features that have characterised Brooms boats ever since, the 37 Continental can fairly be said to be the grandmother of "Aft Cabins - Forward Thinking"!

    Twin v-berths in the forward cabin and two singles in the aft cabin provide permanent berths for four, whilst the settee in the saloon converts to another double berth. All boats feature interior and exterior helms and have sliding doors on both sides of the saloon giving access to the side decks.

    Power is provided by twin 145hp turbo-charged Perkins 6.354 diesels.

    Surveyors comments: It inevitable that you might find some small osmotic blisters on the underbody. As long as these have not reached serious proportions they should not affect either the structural integrity, value or seaworthiness of the boat... and no remedial action is usualy neccessary.
    Window seals on a boat of this age will normally show some signs of leakage and you may also come across some damage to the interior wood panelling around the windows.
    To stop windows leaking you may have use a non-hardening caulking so that the caulking can move with the expansion. To deal with this problem, you may have to remove the frames, rebed them and refasten them less tightly than they were previously installed. This can be expensive so it’s a good idea to get some costings before proceeding with the sale. I must say the window seals on this boat were very good, and this was an Insurance Survey and not for Pre-purchase.

    Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com 


    Santa dashes through Broads in a space-age solar boat


    Children in Norfolk had a very unusual visit from Santa - arriving across Whitlingham Broad by solar powered boat!

    South Norfolk Council and the Broads Authority got together with Creative Arts East and the Whitlingham Charitable Trust to put together a magical Winter Wonderland event to celebrate Christmas early.

    Councillor Martin Wilby, Cabinet member at South Norfolk Council for Communities and Localism said:

    "This is always a bit of a special day in the Christmas calendar at Whitlingham Broad. Whatever the weather it will be spectacular and fun."

    Lucy Burchnall, Deputy Head Ranger said: “The Broads Authority was delighted to be able to lend Santa its futuristic solar powered boat so he could get to Whitlingham Broad. This magical event is always very popular and the special delivery by Santa is the icing on the Christmas cake

    Friday, 14 December 2012

    Seamster 813

    I had a visit to Woods Dyke in Horning on Friday to Survey this popular little boat. This boat was designed by John Welsh. The medium to shallow V hull together with a long shallow keel allows for an easily handling cruiser.

    Several other manufactures used Seamaster moulding to produce their own versions. This includes Ardvark Aird marine and latterly Bounty Boats. The hull is still used today by Viking 26 with their 26ft widebeam.

    The factory built boat is unique in having through standing V berth configuration forward but with the shower toilet compartment extending across the width of the boat. A conventional dinette and galley area is further aft.

    The craft also has a square foredeck to offer more space. This model has a particular emphasis on reducing production costs, over 400 of these boats were made.

    The engine installation vary enormously from single petrol shaft drive to twin diesel. Some models had Volvo petrols with outdrive. This one had a single Perkins diesel on shaft.

    The guys from Ferry Marine lifting her out for Survey.






    Seamaster boats goes back to 1944 when Dick Sparrow(originally a cabinet maker)left London with his caravan, arriving to a field in Dunmow, Essex, which he eventually bought together with some ex W.D. tin sheds. These were used for Dick's original business, making toys, before going into caravan production. These models were called Vanmaster, and 250 caravans were built in total. In 1951, Vanmaster branched into a small boat production, introducing the Seamaster name. Up until 1960, the company was hugely successful, building some 200 craft between 17ft and 26ft.

    Surveyors comments

    Its becoming increasing common on my Surveys to see bilge pump outlets fitted through the hull very close to the water line. It must be high enough to remain above the water at the deepest angle of heel…see image above...or safer still stick a riser loop in it or a non return valve. Its one of the most common ways a boat sinks. Heres some tips on installing bilge pumps.

    Mount the pump

    You must not place the pump in the bilge unrestrained. If it falls over it will suck air and burn out. Pumps must be fastened down. Brackets are available that attach to a stringer or other vertical feature, or you can epoxy a couple of bolts to the bottom of the bilge to serve as mounting studs.

    Float switches must also be fastened.

    Use smooth-bore hose
    Corrugated hose reduces pump output by as much as 30%, so always connect the pump to the discharge fitting with hose that has a smooth interior surface.

    Bends and long runs also reduce pump output, so make the hose run as straight and as short as possible. That may mean discharging the pump through the side of the hull rather than through the transom. However. . .

    Place the discharge above the waterline
    If the discharge is submerged when the pump runs, the ocean siphons back through the pump into the bilge when the pump shuts off. When enough water has entered to float the switch, the pump will eject it, only to have it siphon back again. This continues until the battery is depleted, then the water floods the boat until it reaches a level that gets the crew's attention.

    The discharge fitting must never go below the waterline. If the fitting is through the transom, be sure it is high enough not to submerge when the stern squats. And if it is through the side of the hull, it must be high enough to remain above the water at the deepest angle of heel.

    Use a thin-wall fitting
    The through-hull fitting can further reduce pump capacity. To minimize this restriction, use a fitting with the largest possible opening.

    Lead wiring up
    It is essential to get the pump wiring out of the bilge as quickly as possible. Run the wires up and secure them so that they do not sag into the bilge water.

    Don't skimp on wire size
    A 3,500 gph pump will draw 15 amps, typically necessitating 10-gauge, or maybe even 8-gauge wire. Consult the ABYC Wire Size Table to determine the appropriate wire for your pump and length of wire run.

    Use butt connectors and heat shrink
    Crimp-on step-down butt connectors will assure a good mechanical and electrical connection between the supply wires and the pump leads. Enclose these connections in adhesive heat shrink tubing to make them water tight. You must slide the heat shrink over the wire and out of the way before you make the connections. Then center the tubing over the crimped connector and shrink it with a heat gun or by playing a flame beneath it. Be sure there are no explosive fumes in the bilge!

    Connect to the battery
    When you turn the power off to leave the boat unattended, you don't want to turn off the bilge pump. Connect an automatic bilge pump directly to the battery, not through the distribution panel.

    Fuse the positive side
    It is essential to have a fuse in the positive wire as close to the battery as possible. Some switch panels (see below) include a fuse. Otherwise join an in-line fuse holder to the battery end of the positive wire using a crimp butt connector.

    Install terminal fittings
    Do not strip the ends of the supply wires and loop them beneath the battery terminal wing nuts. Install crimp-on ring terminals the proper size to fit the threaded posts on your battery. Use a copper washer-not steel-between the wing nut and the ring terminal.

    Three-way switch
    If your bilge pump has a separate float switch, you may want to wire it to a three way switch that allows you to select automatic, on, or off. Be sure to support all wire runs at least every 18 inches using cable clamps or ties.

    Two pumps
    A bilge pump big enough to deal with a real emergency will do a poor job of keeping the bilge dry because the water in the discharge hose drains back into the bilge when the pump shuts off. And a big pump requires a big hose.

    The ideal bilge pump arrangement is a small (400 gph) automatic bilge pump mounted in the sump to dispense with rain and shaft-gland leakage, combined with a high capacity pump (3,500 gph) mounted higher to deal with more serious ingress.

    Stepping the discharge hose from the small pump down to 1/2-inch minimizes the backflow from the hose when the pump cycles, maintaining a dryer bilge. The large pump can be wired to a float switch if you prefer, but I think a manual switch makes more sense. An added advantage of this bilge pump configuration is that the high-capacity pump sits high and dry, extending its life indefinitely.

    Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? Call Insight Marine Surveys Ltd. I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com