Exploring the Broads past and future

Bungay High school pupils dug into the origins of the Broads to help launch a plan that sets out a 20 year vision for the future on Suffolk Wildlife Trust’s Carlton Marshes. Broads Authority chairman Dr Stephen Johnson launched Broads Plan 2011, the key strategic management plan for the area, alongside students studying environmental conservation at Bungay High School who travelled 6,000 years back in time to explore its past. They dug peat cores from six metres underground which showed them how the landscape of the Broads was formed.

The Broads Plan sets out a ‘Vision for the Broads to 2030’ together with long-term aims and short-term objectives. Over 600 organisations, groups and individuals with an interest in the Broads were invited to contribute to the plan, which is reviewed every five years. “From the peat cores the children were able to see a real example of how water levels have fluctuated in the Broads in response to climate change,” said Broads Authority Education Officer Nick Sanderson. “The peat that forms the Broads holds the key to both the past and the future. It preserves evidence of the historic habitats and vegetation of the area and locks in carbon from the atmosphere which contributes to global warming and climate change.” Helping residents and visitors to adapt to climate change and sea level rise, and leading the way towards a low carbon economy is central to the Broads Authority’s objectives.

It is one of three key priorities for the Broads Authority and its partners over the lifetime of this Broads Plan, alongside the sustainable management of the Broads landscape, biodiversity and navigation and encouraging local people and visitors to enjoy the Broads in a sustainable and caring way.

An electronic version of the Plan has been produced which will provide progress updates, links to relevant documents and partner websites and other supporting information. The e-Plan may be viewed at http://www.broads-plan.co.uk./

The Plan’s structure reflects the integrated and cross-cutting nature of the Broads Authority’s statutory functions, the multiple responsibilities of other agencies and bodies, and the wide variety of partnership working in the Broads area.

Ocean 30 Mk II Motor Cruiser

I was back down at Horning today inspecting this Motor Cruiser. Aquafibre moulded the hull and the superstructure of the Ocean 30 for other yards to fit out. This round bilge displacement cruiser was in production from 1966 to 1979... This example is the Mk II, adding a small single cabin to the right of the cockpit, producing a three-five berth. Over A 1000 ocean 30’s were built. Most can be found on rivers but the boats are quite cable of seagoing, at least in the twin engine versions.

Surveyors comments on electrical installations generally
It's advisable to run cables as high as possible in the boat to reduce the chance of heat or impact damage - at least 75mm (3ins) and ideally 125mm (5ins) away from any potential sources. Cable conduits can be the 'clip together' uPVC type, galvanised steel or wood. But whatever the type, they must be firmly fixed at around 900mm (3ft) intervals. To minimise the chance of sparks coming off a damaged cable and igniting nearby fuels, cables must be kept at least 30mm (2ins) away from fuel and gas pipes - unless the pipe or the cable is in a suitable conduit or duct.
To minimise the risk of damage to cables, and to allow a visual inspection of the installation, main circuits must be installed above bilge water level. Bilge water level can usually be determined by the presence of a 'tidemark', the position of the bilge pump or its inlet, or the level at which the float switch is set. All main circuits, other than starter circuits, must be protected by circuit breakers or fuses of the appropriate rating and of a suitable design. This means that the fuse or circuit breaker must have a rating which is lower than the current that would cause damage to the circuit. The safe operation of these devices must not be compromised by the use of thicker fuse wire or by using tape to keep the contacts closed. If your boat has a 240V supply it's strongly recommended that you fit a residual current device (RCD) to automatically disconnect the supply. This will prevent an earth leakage current flowing through a faulty appliance, and protects someone inadvertently touching a live circuit and getting an electric shock.

Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com

Dutch Steel Alm Boats

I Surveyed this compact little Dutch Steel Cruiser today at Brundall Marine Services... At just 28ft she is surprisingly roomy inside. When Surveying a steel boat, you need to be able to access as much of the inside of the hull as possible, as steel boats collect moisture & often the moisture is allowed to remain, rusting the frames, stringers, & inner surface of the plating.

Rudder anode wasted away....

Surveyors comments:

Sacrificial anodes. The main points to remember are:

The anode should be position on the outside of the hull below the waterline under the turn of the bilge.

The anode should not be positioned forward of or in line with Echo Sounding Transducers or log impellers.


Anodes may be welded or bolted to a steel hull. When fitting and replacing Bolt-On Anodes always ensure that the serrated fan disc washers are replaced. DO NOT PAINT THE WORKING SURFACE OF THE ANODE.

NOTE: To provide the best protection to the stern gear the shaft should can be fitted with an Electro Eliminator Brush and earthed to the hull. Additionally the gearbox should be bonded to the hull using 4mm2 multi strand cable and any flexible couplings in the shaft should be bridged with a copper strap or cable. The Electro-Eliminators offer the most effective shaft bonding solution. Running directly onto the propeller shaft the electro eliminator puts the anode on constant low resistance contact with the propeller shaft. The copper graphite brushes will give at least 2000 running hours under normal conditions. The electro eliminators will also remove the irritating interference to electronic equipment caused by the rotating shaft.

Ideal 40 Aquafibre Motor Cruiser

Todays assignment was to Survey this Ideal 40. Designed at the end of the 1970's as an extension to the Lancer 35 powerboat. At 40ft x 10ft 9in it was mostly fitted in one of two layouts.  Both feature a master double cabin aft with en-suite, settee/double and galley in the light & spacious central stateroom and accommodation forward with either two or four berths.  At the point of introduction these were amongst the sleekest of inland cruiser designs, the 6 berth model featuring darkened glass.

That sharp stem head is vulnerable… this one has had an argument with the quay heading!

Surveyors Comments:

Welded edges on metal fuel tanks are susceptible to crevice corrosion. Threaded and welded fittings for draw and fill lines are other trouble spots. Unfortunately, a metal fuel tank’s weakest link is the underside and outboard side, which are difficult and in some cases impossible to see. Another troublesome situation is when a metal fuel tank is encased in foam. The idea is the foam will help anchor the tank in place and insulate it from moisture. In reality, the opposite is true and over time vibration and movement cause the foam to separate from the metal. The expansion serves as a gateway for moisture to wick its way between the foam and the tank where it often is trapped. Bottom line is that if your boat is more than 10 years old and the fuel tank is constructed from mild steel, you need to take a long hard look at its condition.......

Aquafibre 32 Motor Cruiser

I Surveyed this Aquafibre Sapphire Aft Cabin Cruiser today. Aquafibre is probably one of the most popular known boat hulls. Aquafibre were a prolific manufacturer of boat shells - these were then outfitted by a variety of boatyards, including Brooms of Brundall and Bristercraft at Wroxham. This example was fitted out by Alpha Craft and has been in current ownership from new (1990). Unfortunately Aquafibre ceased trading in 2009, marking the end of an era in Norfolk boat building.

This model was very popular at home in the Norfolk hirefleets, and a large number were built for Ireland and other markets. It is often considered to have slightly more elegant lines than its larger sister, mainly because of the differences to the aft cabin. The Sapphire 32 was launched in 1983 as the charter version of the popular Broom 32 production model. It is the smaller sister of the Crystal 37, generally configured as a 4+2 berth and can instantly be identified because of the much smaller cabin moulding projecting upwards onto the flybridge area.

Surveyors comments:

There are few problems that can cause more damage and detract from the value of your boat than window, porthole and hatch leaks. Even well constructed boats will eventually develop leaks simply because boats are not totally rigid structures. In fact, they twist and flex quite a bit, and poorly constructed boats flex a lot, which is why we see so many boats that more or less just strain the water before it enters the interior. I am constantly amazed at the number of boats I see where the owner has simply smeared some caulking around the window frames of leaking windows. Let's start with the point that not only does this make a mess of your boat, but this a complete waste of time. When you develop leaking windows, ports or hatches, no surface remedy is going to solve the problem. The leaks usually develop because the seal between the window frame and the fiberglass part of the boat has broken. The break in the seal can be so small that you can't even see it. This is because of the capillary effect, which draws water into the smallest of cracks and more or less acts as a water pump to keep bringing water in. Its also why water can enter at one point and be coming out somewhere else, perhaps two feet away from the source of the leak. Most boats now have aluminium window frames, and which constitute the major source of leaks. This is usually not the fault of the frame, but of the poor design of the structure to which the frame is attached.
　
Conclusion:

To stop windows leaking you may have use a non-hardening caulking so that the caulking can move with the expansion. To deal with this problem, you may have to remove the frames, rebed them and refasten them less tightly than they were previously installed.