Dutch Steel Alm Boats

I Surveyed this compact little Dutch Steel Cruiser today at Brundall Marine Services... At just 28ft she is surprisingly roomy inside. When Surveying a steel boat, you need to be able to access as much of the inside of the hull as possible, as steel boats collect moisture & often the moisture is allowed to remain, rusting the frames, stringers, & inner surface of the plating.

Rudder anode wasted away....

Surveyors comments:

Sacrificial anodes. The main points to remember are:

The anode should be position on the outside of the hull below the waterline under the turn of the bilge.

The anode should not be positioned forward of or in line with Echo Sounding Transducers or log impellers.


Anodes may be welded or bolted to a steel hull. When fitting and replacing Bolt-On Anodes always ensure that the serrated fan disc washers are replaced. DO NOT PAINT THE WORKING SURFACE OF THE ANODE.

NOTE: To provide the best protection to the stern gear the shaft should can be fitted with an Electro Eliminator Brush and earthed to the hull. Additionally the gearbox should be bonded to the hull using 4mm2 multi strand cable and any flexible couplings in the shaft should be bridged with a copper strap or cable. The Electro-Eliminators offer the most effective shaft bonding solution. Running directly onto the propeller shaft the electro eliminator puts the anode on constant low resistance contact with the propeller shaft. The copper graphite brushes will give at least 2000 running hours under normal conditions. The electro eliminators will also remove the irritating interference to electronic equipment caused by the rotating shaft.

Ideal 40 Aquafibre Motor Cruiser

Todays assignment was to Survey this Ideal 40. Designed at the end of the 1970's as an extension to the Lancer 35 powerboat. At 40ft x 10ft 9in it was mostly fitted in one of two layouts.  Both feature a master double cabin aft with en-suite, settee/double and galley in the light & spacious central stateroom and accommodation forward with either two or four berths.  At the point of introduction these were amongst the sleekest of inland cruiser designs, the 6 berth model featuring darkened glass.

That sharp stem head is vulnerable… this one has had an argument with the quay heading!

Surveyors Comments:

Welded edges on metal fuel tanks are susceptible to crevice corrosion. Threaded and welded fittings for draw and fill lines are other trouble spots. Unfortunately, a metal fuel tank’s weakest link is the underside and outboard side, which are difficult and in some cases impossible to see. Another troublesome situation is when a metal fuel tank is encased in foam. The idea is the foam will help anchor the tank in place and insulate it from moisture. In reality, the opposite is true and over time vibration and movement cause the foam to separate from the metal. The expansion serves as a gateway for moisture to wick its way between the foam and the tank where it often is trapped. Bottom line is that if your boat is more than 10 years old and the fuel tank is constructed from mild steel, you need to take a long hard look at its condition.......

Aquafibre 32 Motor Cruiser

I Surveyed this Aquafibre Sapphire Aft Cabin Cruiser today. Aquafibre is probably one of the most popular known boat hulls. Aquafibre were a prolific manufacturer of boat shells - these were then outfitted by a variety of boatyards, including Brooms of Brundall and Bristercraft at Wroxham. This example was fitted out by Alpha Craft and has been in current ownership from new (1990). Unfortunately Aquafibre ceased trading in 2009, marking the end of an era in Norfolk boat building.

This model was very popular at home in the Norfolk hirefleets, and a large number were built for Ireland and other markets. It is often considered to have slightly more elegant lines than its larger sister, mainly because of the differences to the aft cabin. The Sapphire 32 was launched in 1983 as the charter version of the popular Broom 32 production model. It is the smaller sister of the Crystal 37, generally configured as a 4+2 berth and can instantly be identified because of the much smaller cabin moulding projecting upwards onto the flybridge area.

Surveyors comments:

There are few problems that can cause more damage and detract from the value of your boat than window, porthole and hatch leaks. Even well constructed boats will eventually develop leaks simply because boats are not totally rigid structures. In fact, they twist and flex quite a bit, and poorly constructed boats flex a lot, which is why we see so many boats that more or less just strain the water before it enters the interior. I am constantly amazed at the number of boats I see where the owner has simply smeared some caulking around the window frames of leaking windows. Let's start with the point that not only does this make a mess of your boat, but this a complete waste of time. When you develop leaking windows, ports or hatches, no surface remedy is going to solve the problem. The leaks usually develop because the seal between the window frame and the fiberglass part of the boat has broken. The break in the seal can be so small that you can't even see it. This is because of the capillary effect, which draws water into the smallest of cracks and more or less acts as a water pump to keep bringing water in. Its also why water can enter at one point and be coming out somewhere else, perhaps two feet away from the source of the leak. Most boats now have aluminium window frames, and which constitute the major source of leaks. This is usually not the fault of the frame, but of the poor design of the structure to which the frame is attached.
　
Conclusion:

To stop windows leaking you may have use a non-hardening caulking so that the caulking can move with the expansion. To deal with this problem, you may have to remove the frames, rebed them and refasten them less tightly than they were previously installed.

  

Broads Yacht Valkyrie

I had a trip to Reedham Ferry on the South Broads today to Survey this lovely old Broads Yacht. Built by Ernest Collins way back in 1937.

Collins History: The start of the pleasure boating business on the Broads is often associated with Loynes of Wroxham, but another family started a hire craft business which can claim to be the second oldest on the Broads and subsequently, one of its most famous – the Collins family. In the 1930’s, the yard built a series of yachts, all of which were mahogany-planked and bright varnished, giving a distinctive appearance. These included four 30ft, 5 berth yachts, known as the “Valkyrie” class.....

Valkyrie back in her Heyday......

Reedham Village in the distance

Lifting her out for inspection

Amazing old 'Derrick' at Reedham, one of the oldest left operating in the country...

A couple of seams to re-caulk before putting her back in the water

No valves no tanks! The toilet waste goes straight out through the bottom of the loo!

Anyone fancy a project... the Yard have a Corvette 32 hull and superstructure up for sale for £12K. Contact Sandersons of Reedham for more info.

Landamores Broads Cruiser

I was down in Brundall today on the South Broads inspecting this Landamores Elanco 37 Classic Broads Cruiser. Built in 1962, the Elanco 37 was, at that time, the largest hire cruiser one could rent on the Norfolk Broads. 'Snow Goose' is famous here on the Broads as she is one of very few surviving examples. She has a pair of modern diesel engines fitted. Also a generator has been installed that ensures that you are completely self sufficient when away form your home berth and shore power hook-up. All of the above means that she lends herself very well to being used as a liveaboard boat.

Surveyors comments on Surveying wooden boats generally:

Concealed areas within a hull are always a problem but, most wood vessels are constructed in such a way that enough access is available to make a fair assessment. It is usually possible to pull up floors (such as screwed in place plywood panels and the like) and remove enough paneling that one can get a fairly good glimpse of the bottom and lower sides. Carrying an electric screw gun is a must in order to do this quickly and effectively.

Three important tools are a slim but heavy gauge pry bar - of the sort used for pulling nails - a heavy hammer and a large standard blade screwdriver. Check the joints between planks and frames visually, looking for gaps or any sign that the plank is not tight against the frame. Then use the screw driver to test the wood for softness on both plank and frame near the mating surface. If the frame is cracked or the wood is soft, one doesn't have to go any further. Soft wood and cracked frames are dangerous conditions that mandate repair.