I was Surveying this Ocean 37 Motor Yacht today down at Broadland Boat Centre in Brundall. Based on the same hull as the Broom 37 Continental this boat has a significantly different superstructure and changes in the interior layout. Outside, the decks run all round the boat at one level.
Inside, the forward cabin is larger, made possible by moving the galley, now 'corridor' in format, to one side of the saloon towards the stern. The layout of the aft cabin varies between two single berths each side or one double berth accessed from one side. In contrast to the Continental and Crowns, there are no side doors between the saloon and the side decks.
Most boats were fitted with twin 145hp turbo-charged Perkins 6.354 diesels like this example. Some were fitted with 175hp Perkins, giving a slightly higher top speed.
Specifications
LOA: 37ft 0in / 11.28m
Beam: 12ft 0in / 3.66m
Draught: 3ft 0in / 0.91m Min.
Air Draught: 8ft 6in / 2.59m Hull/Deck: GRP
Hull Form: Semi-displacement Cruise Speed: 12 knots Max. Speed: 16 knots
Fuel Capacity: 2 x 100 gals / 454ltr Water Capacity: 100 gals / 454ltr
Build Period: 1973-1983
Number Built: 157 Previous Model: ? Successor
Model: Broom 37
Market Value: £50,000 - 60,000
Surveys Comments
The best preventive maintenance for seacocks, both plastic and metal, is to periodically open and close each valve. Leaving a valve in one position for an extended period of time can allow it to freeze up. Manufacturers' guidelines may differ slightly, but the consensus is that the handle of each seacock should be moved throughout the full open/close path every few weeks, or at least once every 30 days, more frequently if possible. One school of thought advocates closing all seacocks each time the boat is left unattended. If you follow this diligent strategy, be just as methodical coming back aboard, especially to make sure valves on the raw-water intakes are open before starting the engines. If you are forgetful consider putting a placard somewhere near the ignition switch as a reminder. If a seacock won't operate freely, disassemble and lubricate it. To lubricate seacocks while a boat is in the water, use the following procedure:When the boat is hauled out, perform steps four to six from outside the hull to lubricate the opposite side of the valve mechanism. Use winch, wheel bearing, or water pump grease. Avoid lithium or other metal-based greases, which may cause galvanic corrosion. If a seacock is completely frozen, it's best to haul the boat before attempting repair or replacement. If that's not possible, then temporarily plug or seal the penetration from outside the hull before attempting repair. Out of sight out of mind and easily overlooked or neglected seacocks and through-hull fittings can cause very serious problems when not maintained. However, by following the routine outlined here of regular checks and minimal care, they'll provide years of reliable service.
close the valve.
remove the hose or tubing from the inboard side.
remove any remaining water from inside of valve.
swab waterproof grease on the inside of valve mechanism.
reattach the hose or tubing, checking clamps or fittings.
activate the valve several times to spread the grease.
Check bonding straps to all bronze through-hulls to make sure that the cable has no corrosion or breakage that could lead to stray current that will cause galvanic corrosion.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Broads Boats of all types and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
Inside, the forward cabin is larger, made possible by moving the galley, now 'corridor' in format, to one side of the saloon towards the stern. The layout of the aft cabin varies between two single berths each side or one double berth accessed from one side. In contrast to the Continental and Crowns, there are no side doors between the saloon and the side decks.
Most boats were fitted with twin 145hp turbo-charged Perkins 6.354 diesels like this example. Some were fitted with 175hp Perkins, giving a slightly higher top speed.
Specifications
LOA: 37ft 0in / 11.28m
Beam: 12ft 0in / 3.66m
Draught: 3ft 0in / 0.91m Min.
Air Draught: 8ft 6in / 2.59m Hull/Deck: GRP
Hull Form: Semi-displacement Cruise Speed: 12 knots Max. Speed: 16 knots
Fuel Capacity: 2 x 100 gals / 454ltr Water Capacity: 100 gals / 454ltr
Build Period: 1973-1983
Number Built: 157 Previous Model: ? Successor
Model: Broom 37
Market Value: £50,000 - 60,000
Surveys Comments
The best preventive maintenance for seacocks, both plastic and metal, is to periodically open and close each valve. Leaving a valve in one position for an extended period of time can allow it to freeze up. Manufacturers' guidelines may differ slightly, but the consensus is that the handle of each seacock should be moved throughout the full open/close path every few weeks, or at least once every 30 days, more frequently if possible. One school of thought advocates closing all seacocks each time the boat is left unattended. If you follow this diligent strategy, be just as methodical coming back aboard, especially to make sure valves on the raw-water intakes are open before starting the engines. If you are forgetful consider putting a placard somewhere near the ignition switch as a reminder. If a seacock won't operate freely, disassemble and lubricate it. To lubricate seacocks while a boat is in the water, use the following procedure:When the boat is hauled out, perform steps four to six from outside the hull to lubricate the opposite side of the valve mechanism. Use winch, wheel bearing, or water pump grease. Avoid lithium or other metal-based greases, which may cause galvanic corrosion. If a seacock is completely frozen, it's best to haul the boat before attempting repair or replacement. If that's not possible, then temporarily plug or seal the penetration from outside the hull before attempting repair. Out of sight out of mind and easily overlooked or neglected seacocks and through-hull fittings can cause very serious problems when not maintained. However, by following the routine outlined here of regular checks and minimal care, they'll provide years of reliable service.
remove the hose or tubing from the inboard side.
remove any remaining water from inside of valve.
swab waterproof grease on the inside of valve mechanism.
reattach the hose or tubing, checking clamps or fittings.
activate the valve several times to spread the grease.
Check bonding straps to all bronze through-hulls to make sure that the cable has no corrosion or breakage that could lead to stray current that will cause galvanic corrosion.
Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Broads Boats of all types and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com
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