Had a trip to Brooms in Brundall yesterday. It was nice to see the progress in the re-invention of the company, the workshops were full of activity, and the Brokerge is busy with boat sales. The offices and the yard have been transformed and look very up to date, stylish and modern.
Designed by John Bennett, this Broom 39 is known to be a very comfortable sea going boat and, in common with the Broom 37, its wide beam gives it spacious accommodation for the length. As with the 36, introduced in the same year, the 39 positioned cockpit seating at the edge of the deck, maximising the usable area.
The interior layout includes an island double in the aft cabin with separate toilet and shower cubicles. The inclusion of a dinette opposite the galley and on the same floor level gave a comfortable dining area that converted into a further double berth. Twin 'V' berths in the forward cabin had ensuite access to the forward head/shower. An internal helm was not standard, although it could be added on the port side of the saloon if desired.
The 39 was designed with twin 200hp Volvos as standard although by the end of its production cycle 340hp alternatives were being offered like in this example to achieve the top speed of 30 knots.
Surveyors comments: If she’s been laid up for a while check all the sea cocks: The best preventive maintenance for seacocks, both plastic and metal, is to periodically open and close each valve. Leaving a valve in one position for an extended period of time can allow it to freeze up. Manufacturers' guidelines may differ slightly, but the consensus is that the handle of each seacock should be moved throughout the full open/close path every few weeks, or at least once every 30 days, more frequently if possible. One school of thought advocates closing all seacocks each time the boat is left unattended. If you follow this diligent strategy, be just as methodical coming back aboard, especially to make sure valves on the raw-water intakes are open before starting the engines. If you are forgetful consider putting a placard somewhere near the ignition switch as a reminder.
If a seacock won't operate freely, disassemble and lubricate it. To lubricate seacocks while a boat is in the water, use the following procedure:
close the valve.
remove the hose or tubing from the inboard side.
remove any remaining water from inside of valve.
swab waterproof grease on the inside of valve mechanism.
reattach the hose or tubing, checking clamps or fittings.
activate the valve several times to spread the grease.
When the boat is hauled out, perform steps four to six from outside the hull to lubricate the opposite side of the valve mechanism. Use winch, wheel bearing, or water pump grease. Avoid lithium or other metal-based greases, which may cause galvanic corrosion.
If a seacock is completely frozen, it's best to haul the boat before attempting repair or replacement. If that's not possible, then temporarily plug or seal the penetration from outside the hull before attempting repair. Out of sight out of mind and easily overlooked or neglected seacocks and through-hull fittings can cause very serious problems when not maintained. However, by following the routine outlined here of regular checks and minimal care, they'll provide years of reliable service.
Check bonding straps to all bronze through-hulls to make sure that the cable has no corrosion or breakage that could lead to stray current that will cause galvanic corrosion.
Designed by John Bennett, this Broom 39 is known to be a very comfortable sea going boat and, in common with the Broom 37, its wide beam gives it spacious accommodation for the length. As with the 36, introduced in the same year, the 39 positioned cockpit seating at the edge of the deck, maximising the usable area.
The interior layout includes an island double in the aft cabin with separate toilet and shower cubicles. The inclusion of a dinette opposite the galley and on the same floor level gave a comfortable dining area that converted into a further double berth. Twin 'V' berths in the forward cabin had ensuite access to the forward head/shower. An internal helm was not standard, although it could be added on the port side of the saloon if desired.
The 39 was designed with twin 200hp Volvos as standard although by the end of its production cycle 340hp alternatives were being offered like in this example to achieve the top speed of 30 knots.
Surveyors comments: If she’s been laid up for a while check all the sea cocks: The best preventive maintenance for seacocks, both plastic and metal, is to periodically open and close each valve. Leaving a valve in one position for an extended period of time can allow it to freeze up. Manufacturers' guidelines may differ slightly, but the consensus is that the handle of each seacock should be moved throughout the full open/close path every few weeks, or at least once every 30 days, more frequently if possible. One school of thought advocates closing all seacocks each time the boat is left unattended. If you follow this diligent strategy, be just as methodical coming back aboard, especially to make sure valves on the raw-water intakes are open before starting the engines. If you are forgetful consider putting a placard somewhere near the ignition switch as a reminder.
If a seacock won't operate freely, disassemble and lubricate it. To lubricate seacocks while a boat is in the water, use the following procedure:
remove the hose or tubing from the inboard side.
remove any remaining water from inside of valve.
swab waterproof grease on the inside of valve mechanism.
reattach the hose or tubing, checking clamps or fittings.
activate the valve several times to spread the grease.
If a seacock is completely frozen, it's best to haul the boat before attempting repair or replacement. If that's not possible, then temporarily plug or seal the penetration from outside the hull before attempting repair. Out of sight out of mind and easily overlooked or neglected seacocks and through-hull fittings can cause very serious problems when not maintained. However, by following the routine outlined here of regular checks and minimal care, they'll provide years of reliable service.
Check bonding straps to all bronze through-hulls to make sure that the cable has no corrosion or breakage that could lead to stray current that will cause galvanic corrosion.
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