Grand Banks 42 Classic - Teak Decks - refurb and cleaning

 

I’m cracking along with odd jobs on Dawn Seeker. The weathers turning now so im just checking the decks. They are surprisingly good for her age. They have been refurbished to a good standard at some point. There were some leaks getting in behind the quadrant at the deck to superstructure joint, but I've stopped those now. The seams were all pretty good. The plugs I've replaced in areas. Cleanings the next job for spring. I’ve copy and pasted in some interesting tips I found on line…. Must throw my hard bristled scrubbing brush in the skip!

 

 Cleaning

• Teak wood may have softer and harder sections. Never scrub your deck with a hard bristle brush, as this could wear away the softer sections of the wood. Wash your deck with plain water---preferably saltwater. The salt in the water will protect your deck from algae and mold. You can use fresh water from a hose if that's all you have available, but don't use a pressure washer.
  You can use a mild solution of dish liquid and water and a cotton mop if the deck gets dirty. If you need to scrub at stubborn dirt, use a nylon sponge or soft bristle brush, and wash across the grain. If you scrub with the grain, you risk wearing out any softer areas of wood. Don't use harsh chemicals, such as bleach.

Refinishing

• Your deck doesn't need oil to stay in good shape. In fact, oil will attract dirt and eventually become gummy, detracting from your deck's good looks. Avoid chemical refinishers as these could damage the wood.
  If you want to restore an older deck, sand lightly with fine-grit sandpaper to reveal the golden color of new wood. Don't do this too often, or you'll eventually wear out your deck. Some manufacturers of teak decking argue that you should never sand a teak deck, as you risk exposing softer areas. Sanding may even decrease teak's non-slip quality.
  Don't varnish your teak deck, either. The beauty of teak lies in the way it weathers. And varnishing can make the deck slippery.

 

Protecting

• Always mask off the wood of your deck before you re-caulk. Likewise, protect the deck when you're painting by masking off the wood or covering it with a drop cloth.
  Don't let your deck dry out too much. Dry wood shrinks, which strains the caulking between boards. When you're out in the sun, wet the deck down daily.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/way_5367942_teak-deck-maintenance.html#ixzz2jnIDSPy8

Buying a Cruiser Class on the Norfolk Broads

I had a trip out to Crown Cruisers Yacht Station in Lowestoft today. I Surveyed this Broads Cruiser again built by Applegate’s on a Jack Powles hull back in 1932. In the 1930’s, the Applegate’s yard built a series of yachts, all of which were mahogany-planked and bright varnished, giving a distinctive appearance.

General advice: Opening Up Concealed areas within a hull are always a problem but, most wood vessels are constructed in such a way that enough access is available to make a fair assessment. It is usually possible to pull up floors (such as screwed in place plywood panels and the like) and remove enough panelling that one can get a fairly good glimpse of the bottom and lower sides. Carrying an electric screw gun is a must in order to do this quickly and effectively.

Thinking of buying a Broads Yacht.... drop me an email at steventruss1@aol.com I will be happy to chat....

Cored hulls on boats



The risk of water entry into a cored bottom boat is obvious to most experienced boat owners. All it takes is for one improperly made screw hole to turn a boat bottom into mush. Take a look at the above photo that illustrates the results of what happens when water gets into a core. What you see there is the bottom chamber of the boat hull that was in the process of completely disintegrating. The reason is that once water gets into a core, a phenomenon called hydraulic erosion takes place. Due to the slamming and pounding of the hull bottom on the sea surface, water contained within a core will be compressed by the flexing laminate structure. Thus, the bottom literally becomes a diaphragm pump.

 

Bounty 34 Soverign

Yesterdays assignment was to Survey this Sovereign Sunbridge 34 for Pre Purchase.

The Sovereign range was one of the last designs by Bounty. The Sunbridge 34 version was built as both a dual helm model, featuring both external helm and a second located in the central saloon, and single helm models. The single helm had just the external helm, with folding canopy over. The galley and forward bathroom layouts changed as did the saloon layout which offered an even more sociable area with additional seating space.

Bounty Boats was formed by Mike Brister, and in 1968 was sold to Peter Brown. At the time the company was a small hirefleet of assorted craft, based at Brundall on the Norfolk Broads.

Sunbridge 34, Standard Dimensions:

Length: 34ft (10.39m)
Beam: 12ft 4‘ (3.77m)
Draft: 2ft 6‘ (0.76m)
Airdraft: 2.6m
Displacement: 6.6 tons

Marine Surveyor Norfolk Broads

Welcome to Insight Marine Surveys Ltd

I have been Surveying boats since 1995. By 2013 I have completed over 3000 surveys, which included 100's of types of sail and power boats. Being based in East Anglia on the Norfolk Broads in South East England I also specialise in Inland Cruisers, Ex Hire Boats and Classic Timber Motor Boats and Yachts.

I provide a range of Marine Surveys including Pre-Purchase Surveys, Hull Surveys, Systems Surveys, Sea Trials, Insurance Surveys, Valuation Reports, Boat Safety Scheme Examinations and Finance Surveys. 

 

http://www.insightmarinesurveyors.co.uk/