Thinking about buying or insuring a boat in Preveza Greece??

Friday, 8 November 2013

Broom 39 2 + 2

I was working at Brundall Bay Marina today on the South Broads Surveying this Broom 39. She is the successor to the popular Ocean 38, with an improved bathing platform with built-in steps. The 39 followed the example of the 42 CL in using the narrow "eyebrow" style side windows and a black frame for the front windscreen. This 39 2+2 is a variation on the 39KL providing two ensuite cabins and an extended deck saloon.
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Intended mainly for extended periods of cruising, the 2+2 is normally fitted with twin 260HP Yanmars and larger fuel tanks for longer range. This one is unusual with her black and carbon fibre trim and larger Volvo 320HP Diesels giving a top speed around 25 Knots.
Innovative Simpson davit system


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U shaped seating in saloon to starboard

 
The dinette is removed, and the additional space is given over to the larger forward cabin and a bonus utility space, which can be used for a washing machine, a generator and additional stores. The spacious interior provides very comfortable, live-aboard facilities for extensive cruising.


Surveyors comments:
Build quality during this period was exceptional at Brooms. A real Royals Royce.

Wednesday, 6 November 2013

Sealine S28 2002

I must apologise for a slow down in posts at this very busy time.

I had a trip out to Norfolk Yacht Agency in Brundall today on the South Norfolk Broads. Norfolk Yacht agency are heading into their busy period this time of year, boats to winterise, and prepping new boats for their Stock collection and Brokerage. They have a vast range of New and Pre-owned boats for sale from their two offices in the heart of the Norfolk Broads.


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This Sealine S28 is another example of Sealine's excellent use of space relative to the overall length of the boat. This model manages a very large cockpit and interior with all the luxuries normally associated with much bigger boats. The accommodation on the S28 is second to none for its class. She offers a large galley area incorporating a fridge freezer and full washing up facilities! The forward area of the saloon features a large u shaped seating area that in the evenings creates a large double berth. The aft cabin again features a large double berth. Located between the two sleeping areas is the toilet and shower area. This features a full toilet and hot and cold shower.
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Surveyors comments: Constructed to a high standard out of good quality materials.

Tuesday, 5 November 2013

Grand Banks 42 Classic - Teak Decks - refurb and cleaning

 


I’m cracking along with odd jobs on Dawn Seeker. The weathers turning now so im just checking the decks. They are surprisingly good for her age. They have been refurbished to a good standard at some point. There were some leaks getting in behind the quadrant at the deck to superstructure joint, but I've stopped those now. The seams were all pretty good. The plugs I've replaced in areas. Cleanings the next job for spring. I’ve copy and pasted in some interesting tips I found on line…. Must throw my hard bristled scrubbing brush in the skip!
 





 Cleaning
  • Teak wood may have softer and harder sections. Never scrub your deck with a hard bristle brush, as this could wear away the softer sections of the wood. Wash your deck with plain water---preferably saltwater. The salt in the water will protect your deck from algae and mold. You can use fresh water from a hose if that's all you have available, but don't use a pressure washer.
    You can use a mild solution of dish liquid and water and a cotton mop if the deck gets dirty. If you need to scrub at stubborn dirt, use a nylon sponge or soft bristle brush, and wash across the grain. If you scrub with the grain, you risk wearing out any softer areas of wood. Don't use harsh chemicals, such as bleach.
Refinishing

  • Your deck doesn't need oil to stay in good shape. In fact, oil will attract dirt and eventually become gummy, detracting from your deck's good looks. Avoid chemical refinishers as these could damage the wood.
    If you want to restore an older deck, sand lightly with fine-grit sandpaper to reveal the golden color of new wood. Don't do this too often, or you'll eventually wear out your deck. Some manufacturers of teak decking argue that you should never sand a teak deck, as you risk exposing softer areas. Sanding may even decrease teak's non-slip quality.
    Don't varnish your teak deck, either. The beauty of teak lies in the way it weathers. And varnishing can make the deck slippery.
  • Always mask off the wood of your deck before you re-caulk. Likewise, protect the deck when you're painting by masking off the wood or covering it with a drop cloth.
    Don't let your deck dry out too much. Dry wood shrinks, which strains the caulking between boards. When you're out in the sun, wet the deck down daily.


Read more: http://www.ehow.com/way_5367942_teak-deck-maintenance.html#ixzz2jnIDSPy8

Monday, 4 November 2013

Buying a Cruiser Class on the Norfolk Broads

I had a trip out to Crown Cruisers Yacht Station in Lowestoft today. I Surveyed this Broads Cruiser again built by Applegate’s on a Jack Powles hull back in 1932. In the 1930’s, the Applegate’s yard built a series of yachts, all of which were mahogany-planked and bright varnished, giving a distinctive appearance.
General advice: Opening Up Concealed areas within a hull are always a problem but, most wood vessels are constructed in such a way that enough access is available to make a fair assessment. It is usually possible to pull up floors (such as screwed in place plywood panels and the like) and remove enough panelling that one can get a fairly good glimpse of the bottom and lower sides. Carrying an electric screw gun is a must in order to do this quickly and effectively.





Thinking of buying a Broads Yacht.... drop me an email at steventruss1@aol.com I will be happy to chat....

Friday, 25 October 2013

Cored hulls on boats



The risk of water entry into a cored bottom boat is obvious to most experienced boat owners. All it takes is for one improperly made screw hole to turn a boat bottom into mush. Take a look at the above photo that illustrates the results of what happens when water gets into a core. What you see there is the bottom chamber of the boat hull that was in the process of completely disintegrating. The reason is that once water gets into a core, a phenomenon called hydraulic erosion takes place. Due to the slamming and pounding of the hull bottom on the sea surface, water contained within a core will be compressed by the flexing laminate structure. Thus, the bottom literally becomes a diaphragm pump.