Thinking about buying or insuring a boat in Preveza Greece??

Thursday, 16 February 2012

Aquafibre 38 River Crusier

Today’s assignment was on this Aquafibre 38 River Crusier down at Norfolk Yacht Agency at Horning. A dual steer cruiser launched in the late 80's to be the first dual steer cruiser to be able to pass under Potter Heigham bridge, Norfolk at low water. The models low air draught is complemented by sleek lines and good use of internal space. Later models were improved by the addition of a stern door, with early models only access point being through the external flybridge.







History: Aquafibre was founded at Neatishead, Norfolk in the 1960's by a consortium of local boat-builders. The majority shareholders were Robert Richardson and John Linford, who had 30% equity each. The remainder was divided between Martin Broom (Broom Boats - 15%), Vicktor Bell (Bell Boats - 10%), David Millbank (Jenners of Thorpe 10%) and Dawncraft of Wroxham (5%). Dawncraft soon sold their share to David Millbank. John Linford was tragically killed in a light aircraft crash and his share was sold to Martin Broom.

Robert Richardson felt that he was the main customer of the business and so sold his share to Martin Broom around 1975 to embark on his own operation. It is not known (by us, at least) what the current shareholding is, however Aquafibre is often identified as being Broom's 'sister' company and almost all of their boats have been moulded at Wendover Road.

Aquafibre also provide mould development and consultancy services for many other major boatbuilders as well as producing their extensive range of models from the current Rackheath facility. Sadly, in May 2009 the vast Wendover Road site at Rackheath closed its doors for the very last time. Production of sister company Broom's mouldings moved entirely to their Brundall site, with key Aquafibre customer Haines doing the same for their models built at Catfield.

Surveyors comments: Winter lay up / Electrical System:

All main electrical connections should be checked for corrosion before laying up for the winter. Once they are corrosion free, they should be sprayed with WD40 or equivalent so that they won't corrode in the damp weather. The batteries are very susceptible to damage during the winter season and should be cared for in the following manner. They should be disconnected and the terminals should be cleaned. The electrolyte level should be checked and topped up if necessary. The batteries should be fully charged. Ideally the batteries should be removed and kept indoors for the winter as sub-zero temperatures are not good for them. Also ideally they should be re-charged every month during the winter as the charge will slowly drain over a long period of time.

Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com

Tuesday, 14 February 2012

Pedro Skiron 35

Todays assignment was to Survey this Steel Built Pedro Motor Cruiser down at Bells Marine in Brundall.

Pedro Boats of Zuidbroek in the Netherlands produce a range of steel craft and they are becoming more and more popular on the Broads, J.R. Cole of Brundall is the UK's exclusive distributor, so the make is becoming even more common.





The Skiron is well finished. The durable teak interior provides a warm feel that makes you feel at home straightaway.

Perkins Sabre 90HP... one of the better diesel options.



From the outside steering position you have a good view of the boat. This edition also has a soft-top hood that allows you to cover the outside steering position from rain, splashing water, or strong sunlight.

Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at:

steventruss1@aol.com

Saturday, 11 February 2012

Frozen Seacocks!

The best preventive maintenance for seacocks.........If your boat must be left in the water, the thru-hulls should be protected by closing all seacocks and gate valves. Leaving a thru-hull unprotected over the winter is like going on an extended holiday and leaving your home’s front door open! Failure to close thru-hulls is a major cause of loss in the UK. In a recent study of claims, seacocks or gate valves left open caused or contributed to the sinking. It should be noted that raising and refurbishing a boat that sinks, even at a dock, is a daunting job that can keep the boat in the repair yard for many weeks over the spring and summer. Whenever a boat is stored in the water over the winter, all thru-hulls, with the exception of the ones for cockpit drains, must be closed or it could be on the bottom next spring. And all thru-hulls, especially the ones for the cockpit drains, must be double-clamped with stainless steel hose clamps at each end. This is critical. When water freezes it expands and will lift a poorly secured hose off of a fitting. The hose itself is also important. Lightweight hose and PVC tubing can rupture or crack. Use only a heavily reinforced hose, especially at cockpit drains.

Skin fittings below the waterline and most within about 30cm.above the waterline should have seacocks fitted. No plastic or nylon fittings should be fitted below the waterline. (these can fracture )

One way to stop those drips……..whats underneath ?


If a seacock is completely frozen, it's best to haul the boat before attempting repair or replacement. If that's not possible, then temporarily plug or seal the penetration from outside the hull before attempting repair. Out of sight out of mind and easily overlooked or neglected seacocks and through-hull fittings can cause very serious problems when not maintained.
If your boat has thru-hulls below the waterline that can’t be closed, either because they are mechanically frozen open or have broken (typical with gate valves, which is why they are not recommended), it should be stored ashore for the winter.

Seacocks are closed by moving the handle down so that the handle is parallel to the hull. Gate valves are closed by turning the wheel clockwise. After the seacock or gate valve has been closed, remove the hose so that it drains and then use an absorbent cloth to eliminate any residual water, which can freeze and crack the nipple. (Taking off the hose also assures you that the valve has closed properly.) Reinstall the hose immediately and secure the two clamps.

It should be noted that thru-hulls above the waterline are not required to have seacocks and most don’t. That doesn’t mean that these thru-hulls aren’t vulnerable. Ordinary plastic thru-hulls deteriorate in sunlight and have been broken when they were shoved underwater by the weight of snow and ice in the cockpit, which then sinks the boat. Plastic thru-hulls near the waterline are especially vulnerable and should be replaced with bronze.

The best preventive maintenance for seacocks, both plastic and metal, is to periodically open and close each valve. Leaving a valve in one position for an extended period of time can allow it to freeze up. Manufacturers' guidelines may differ slightly, but the consensus is that the handle of each seacock should be moved throughout the full open/close path every few weeks, or at least once every 30 days, more frequently if possible. One school of thought advocates closing all seacocks each time the boat is left unattended. If you follow this diligent strategy, be just as methodical coming back aboard, especially to make sure valves on the raw-water intakes are open before starting the engines. If you are forgetful consider putting a placard somewhere near the ignition switch as a reminder.


If a seacock won't operate freely, disassemble and lubricate it. To lubricate seacocks while a boat is in the water, use the following procedure:When the boat is hauled out, perform steps four to six from outside the hull to lubricate the opposite side of the valve mechanism. Use winch, wheel bearing, or water pump grease. Avoid lithium or other metal-based greases, which may cause galvanic corrosion.
close the valve.
remove the hose or tubing from the inboard side.
remove any remaining water from inside of valve.
swab waterproof grease on the inside of valve mechanism.
reattach the hose or tubing, checking clamps or fittings.
activate the valve several times to spread the grease.

Friday, 10 February 2012

Broom 36 Motor Cruiser

I was working at Norfolk Yacht Agency in Brundall today Surveying this Broom 36 Motor Cruiser. This was apparently the first Broom 36 built and the decks and superstructure are all wood. Built circa 1966 and powered by two Perkins 47hp diesel engines. The boat was fitted out by CJ Brooms & Sons of Brundall, Norfolk. Most Brooms of this type were used on rivers but some twin engine versions like this example could successfully cruise across the English channel. Early boats had wooden superstructures, but all GRP versions were introduced later.
This is a larger version of the Broom 30, based upon a Bourne 35 hull.





A little History

Broom boats originally created boats for the gentry of the Norfolk for the exploration of the Norfolk broads; it was founded in 1898 by Charles J Broom. In 1912 broom boats had their first major development; they started to produce and hire boats for visitors to the Norfolk broads. How innovative and cutting edge Broom has always been is shown through how they were one of the very first companies to put internal combustion engines into their boats. Broom boats continued to build even through tough times; most boatyards were forced to shut during the Second World War but because of Broom’s high quality they were asked to build ships for the British Navy. This is when Broom perfected techniques for optimum production. Another notable contribution Broom have made to boat building is they were the pioneers in moving the main material for boats from wood to fibreglass, this was in the 1960s.


My main interest lies in the old “wooden boats” of course and they were certainly built with quality and style, and they were built with such skilled craftsmanship and still turn heads today. One of the boats featured in this Blog is The Albert which was built for one of the directors of the Norwich confectionery manufacturer John Mackintosh & Co. Designed by Arnott Fowler and built by Brooms, The Albert was launched in 1965 and has an illustrious claim to fame having been chosen to ferry the Queen and The Duke of Edinburgh from Horning Staithe for the opening of the new conservation centre at Ranworth in November 1976.

Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com

Wednesday, 8 February 2012

River Cruiser Class Yacht Dorothy

Today’s assignment was to Pre-purchase Survey this lovely old Yacht down at Anne Whelptons Yard at Upton Dyke on the Northern Broads.

Anne Whelpton provides traditional yachts and modern sailing boats for charter hire on the Norfolk Broads. For over 50 years Tim and Anne Whelpton and their staff have operated a fine fleet of yachts based at Upton Yacht Station. Since Tim's demise in March 2009, Anne continues to run the yard with her loyal team of staff. All the yachts are maintained and fitted out to very high standard.

‘Dorothy’ is a Norfolk Broads Yacht constructed to a design relevant to the 1920's. She is of hard bilge timber construction, accommodates four berths in two cabins. She has a raked stem, flat counter stern and a fixed timber keel. She has a typical Broads type Gaff rig, and is tiller steered from an aft cockpit well. In the 1920’s, the Southgate Yard built two yachts, the other being Diana, both of which were mahogany-planked and enamelled white.


Not ideal weather for laying under a boat!!







This Yacht was built 2 miles away from my home... small world...

She was £8 pounds a week to hire back in the day!!


Surveyors comments generally on wooden boats:

Planks & Frames Three important tools to carry are a slim but heavy gauge pry bar - of the sort used for pulling nails - a heavy hammer and a large standard blade screwdriver. I check the joints between planks and frames visually, looking for gaps or any sign that the plank is not tight against the frame. Then use the screw driver to test the wood for softness on both plank and frame near the mating surface. If the frame is cracked or the wood is soft, one doesn't have to go any further. Soft wood and cracked frames are dangerous conditions that mandate repair.

Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com