Thinking about buying or insuring a boat in Preveza Greece??

Wednesday, 8 February 2012

River Cruiser Class Yacht Dorothy

Today’s assignment was to Pre-purchase Survey this lovely old Yacht down at Anne Whelptons Yard at Upton Dyke on the Northern Broads.

Anne Whelpton provides traditional yachts and modern sailing boats for charter hire on the Norfolk Broads. For over 50 years Tim and Anne Whelpton and their staff have operated a fine fleet of yachts based at Upton Yacht Station. Since Tim's demise in March 2009, Anne continues to run the yard with her loyal team of staff. All the yachts are maintained and fitted out to very high standard.

‘Dorothy’ is a Norfolk Broads Yacht constructed to a design relevant to the 1920's. She is of hard bilge timber construction, accommodates four berths in two cabins. She has a raked stem, flat counter stern and a fixed timber keel. She has a typical Broads type Gaff rig, and is tiller steered from an aft cockpit well. In the 1920’s, the Southgate Yard built two yachts, the other being Diana, both of which were mahogany-planked and enamelled white.


Not ideal weather for laying under a boat!!







This Yacht was built 2 miles away from my home... small world...

She was £8 pounds a week to hire back in the day!!


Surveyors comments generally on wooden boats:

Planks & Frames Three important tools to carry are a slim but heavy gauge pry bar - of the sort used for pulling nails - a heavy hammer and a large standard blade screwdriver. I check the joints between planks and frames visually, looking for gaps or any sign that the plank is not tight against the frame. Then use the screw driver to test the wood for softness on both plank and frame near the mating surface. If the frame is cracked or the wood is soft, one doesn't have to go any further. Soft wood and cracked frames are dangerous conditions that mandate repair.

Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com 
 

Tuesday, 7 February 2012

Zingara for sale.

Zingara is a sleek 28’ on the deck 30’ LOA carvel racing yacht, one of the most eye-catching on the Broads racing circuit with a good racing pedigree. She has 2 berths so can cruise but is predominantly for racing with a crew of 2 to 4. The rig is a 43’ aluminium bermudan with an inventory of 4 jibs, outboard engine, all over cover (2010). She was extensively rebuilt in 1999 as featured in Classic Boat issue 172 and has been professionally maintained to a high standard ever since.

£21,500.........For further details please contact Richie Dugdale: 07766 771592




Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com

Mystery death of Graham Cook, popular pilot of Potter Heigham bridge in Norfolk - News - Eastern Daily Press

Mystery death of Graham Cook, popular pilot of Potter Heigham bridge in Norfolk - News - Eastern Daily Press

Monday, 6 February 2012

Great time to buy a Broads Crusier / Yacht

With the Regatta season just around the corner… how about buying yourself a gorgeous Norfolk Broads Cruiser Class Yacht and getting involved. Here are just a few up for sale….



                                        http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=212

                                           http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=55


                                       http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=89

                                        http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=99

                                          http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=54

                                          http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=135

                                         http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=292

                                      http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=293

Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com

Saturday, 4 February 2012

Guidelines for winterising diesel inboard engines

The following information is only to be used as a guide. There is no perfect way to winterise an engine.

Cooling System

In a Direct Cooling system, water is pumped from outside the boat, through the engine cooling passages and out of the exhaust. To winterise this type of engine: Remove the Thermostat. This lets water circulate in the engine without the engine having to reach operating temperature. Check the Sacrificial Anodes. Make sure that these are not depleted. Replace if necessary. Run the engine with the water pump feeding from a Coolant Water mix. This can usually be done by closing the external stopcock and disconnecting the pump's feed hose from the water inlet. This hose can then be put into a bucket filled with Coolant Water mix. Run the engine until this mix can be seen coming out of the exhaust. All the cooling passages should now be filled with this mix. (Collect the coolant from the exhaust in another bucket and dispose of it in an environmentally friendly manner) Reconnect hoses etc.

In an Indirect Cooling system, coolant is held in a closed system in the engine. Heat from this internal system is dissipated in a heat exchanger to external water which is pumped, from outside the boat, through the heat exchanger and out through the exhaust. To winterise this type of engine: Check that the internal Coolant
is at the correct density by use of a hydrometer. The manufacturers of the Coolant will recommend how often the coolant should be replaced totally but it is usually every three years. Run the engine with the water pump feeding from a Coolant Water mix in the same manner as in a Direct Cooling system.

Lubrication System

As an engine is used, sulphur in the fuel is burned and Sulphuric Acid is formed. This finds its way into the engine oil and is the main reason to change your oil before laying up the boat for the winter. It is a good idea to warm up the engine before changing the oil. Both the oil and the oil filter should be replaced at the same time. Normal grade oil is fine for laying up the engine for the winter. The waste oil should be disposed of in an environmentally friendly manner. (Most garages will dispose of it for you)

Fuel System

Check Fuel Pre-Filters and Main Filters. These should be cleaned or replaced. Drain any water from the bottom of the fuel tank and/or the water trap. The fuel tank should be filled before laying up for the winter. This prevents condensation during the winter which will cause corrosion in the tank.

Electrical System

All main electrical connections should be checked for corrosion before laying up for the winter. Once they are corrosion free, they should be sprayed with WD40 or equivalent so that they won't corrode in the damp weather. The batteries are very susceptible to damage during the winter season and should be cared for in the following manner. They should be disconnected and the terminals should be cleaned. The electrolyte level should be checked and topped up if necessary. The batteries should be fully charged. Ideally the batteries should be removed and kept indoors for the winter as sub-zero temperatures are not good for them. Also ideally they should be re-charged every month during the winter as the charge will slowly drain over a long period of time.