Thinking about buying or insuring a boat in Preveza Greece??

Tuesday, 7 February 2012

Zingara for sale.

Zingara is a sleek 28’ on the deck 30’ LOA carvel racing yacht, one of the most eye-catching on the Broads racing circuit with a good racing pedigree. She has 2 berths so can cruise but is predominantly for racing with a crew of 2 to 4. The rig is a 43’ aluminium bermudan with an inventory of 4 jibs, outboard engine, all over cover (2010). She was extensively rebuilt in 1999 as featured in Classic Boat issue 172 and has been professionally maintained to a high standard ever since.

£21,500.........For further details please contact Richie Dugdale: 07766 771592




Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com

Mystery death of Graham Cook, popular pilot of Potter Heigham bridge in Norfolk - News - Eastern Daily Press

Mystery death of Graham Cook, popular pilot of Potter Heigham bridge in Norfolk - News - Eastern Daily Press

Monday, 6 February 2012

Great time to buy a Broads Crusier / Yacht

With the Regatta season just around the corner… how about buying yourself a gorgeous Norfolk Broads Cruiser Class Yacht and getting involved. Here are just a few up for sale….



                                        http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=212

                                           http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=55


                                       http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=89

                                        http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=99

                                          http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=54

                                          http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=135

                                         http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=292

                                      http://www.rivercruiser.org/html/yachts.php?sail=293

Thinking of Buying a Boat and Need Help? I specialise in Boats of all types, and I will assist you to make an informed decision. Contact me for a detailed and comprehensive report at: steventruss1@aol.com

Saturday, 4 February 2012

Guidelines for winterising diesel inboard engines

The following information is only to be used as a guide. There is no perfect way to winterise an engine.

Cooling System

In a Direct Cooling system, water is pumped from outside the boat, through the engine cooling passages and out of the exhaust. To winterise this type of engine: Remove the Thermostat. This lets water circulate in the engine without the engine having to reach operating temperature. Check the Sacrificial Anodes. Make sure that these are not depleted. Replace if necessary. Run the engine with the water pump feeding from a Coolant Water mix. This can usually be done by closing the external stopcock and disconnecting the pump's feed hose from the water inlet. This hose can then be put into a bucket filled with Coolant Water mix. Run the engine until this mix can be seen coming out of the exhaust. All the cooling passages should now be filled with this mix. (Collect the coolant from the exhaust in another bucket and dispose of it in an environmentally friendly manner) Reconnect hoses etc.

In an Indirect Cooling system, coolant is held in a closed system in the engine. Heat from this internal system is dissipated in a heat exchanger to external water which is pumped, from outside the boat, through the heat exchanger and out through the exhaust. To winterise this type of engine: Check that the internal Coolant
is at the correct density by use of a hydrometer. The manufacturers of the Coolant will recommend how often the coolant should be replaced totally but it is usually every three years. Run the engine with the water pump feeding from a Coolant Water mix in the same manner as in a Direct Cooling system.

Lubrication System

As an engine is used, sulphur in the fuel is burned and Sulphuric Acid is formed. This finds its way into the engine oil and is the main reason to change your oil before laying up the boat for the winter. It is a good idea to warm up the engine before changing the oil. Both the oil and the oil filter should be replaced at the same time. Normal grade oil is fine for laying up the engine for the winter. The waste oil should be disposed of in an environmentally friendly manner. (Most garages will dispose of it for you)

Fuel System

Check Fuel Pre-Filters and Main Filters. These should be cleaned or replaced. Drain any water from the bottom of the fuel tank and/or the water trap. The fuel tank should be filled before laying up for the winter. This prevents condensation during the winter which will cause corrosion in the tank.

Electrical System

All main electrical connections should be checked for corrosion before laying up for the winter. Once they are corrosion free, they should be sprayed with WD40 or equivalent so that they won't corrode in the damp weather. The batteries are very susceptible to damage during the winter season and should be cared for in the following manner. They should be disconnected and the terminals should be cleaned. The electrolyte level should be checked and topped up if necessary. The batteries should be fully charged. Ideally the batteries should be removed and kept indoors for the winter as sub-zero temperatures are not good for them. Also ideally they should be re-charged every month during the winter as the charge will slowly drain over a long period of time.

Friday, 3 February 2012

‘Fit a smoke alarm and keep it working’




Fit a smoke alarm and keep it working’, is the blunt advice from the Boat Safety Scheme following a recent boat fire where the owner was potentially only seconds away from death. The live-aboard boater had no early warning when he awoke in the middle of the night to find his home was filling rapidly with toxic smoke. The solid fuel stove in the saloon had set fire to the boat’s lining and he had previously removed the battery from his smoke alarm. By the time he had realised what was happening, he had to crawl out of the boat on his chest to keep below the level of the smoke. In less than a minute after his escape, flames filled the cabin as he stood on the towpath calling 999.

According to the Fire Kills campaign, toxic smoke will affect your ability to breathe and cause you a drowning sensation; with just two to three breaths of toxic smoke in a boat fire, you could be unconscious, so every second counts when you need to escape.

BSS Manager, Graham Watts said: ‘Whilst this boat owner has lost all his possessions, luckily he still has his life. Boaters have died from smoke poisoning when fires developed as they slept and a working smoke alarm could have alerted them to escape. ‘If you sleep aboard, give yourself a chance to escape a fire, fit a smoke alarm and test it weekly when you’re using the boat. ‘Also if your alarm regularly goes off when you’re cooking, replace it with one that has a hush button that stops the alarm from sounding while you make the toast or fry the bacon! These alarms are cheap and easy to buy from online suppliers, DIY shops and supermarkets. ‘The alarm of choice is an optical alarm with a long-life battery, a hush button, and one that is certified as meeting either BS 5446:2000 Part 1, or BS EN 14604:2005, so it should carry a ‘Kitemark’ or ‘horseshoe’ certification mark. Also, if you can’t hear it in the saloon while you are in the sleeping quarters, buy two, one for each end of the boat.’

There are guidelines for choosing and installing an alarm on boat on the BSS fire safety website.